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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Wonderland of R…
> Wonderland North
> Middle Kingdom
> Techulator
Friendly Fists
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in The Techulator
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Aged Oak Barrels TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Aspire TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Chute To Kill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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E. B. Bon Homme T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Friendly Fists T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Garden Path T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hair Line T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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High and Dry (aka Short but Flared) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Muffin Bandits T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Muffin Head T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Perspire TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pillar Of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Science Experiments You Can Eat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slow Mutants T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spire Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Tchalk is Cheap T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Techie Tips T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Too Thin For Poodles T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Too Wide for Chihuahas T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Under A Raging Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wren's Nest T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 34.05953, -116.1704 |
| FA: | Roger Linfield and Dennis Yates, Dec. 1986 |
| Page Views: | 934 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Roger Linfield on Apr 14, 2011 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Climb the crack, which is easier than it looks, due to some good face holds. This climb is in the shade almost all day.
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