All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland North > Middle Kingdom > Techulator

Muffin Head

Name: Muffin Head
Rating: 1.0

5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in The Techulator

L › R R › L A › Z

	Chute To Kill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Friendly Fists T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Garden Path T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	High and Dry (AKA Short But Flared) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Muffin Bandits T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Muffin Head T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Pillar Of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Slow Mutants T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Spire Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Too Thin For Poodles T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Under A Raging Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Wren's Nest T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 80 ft
FA:	Dave Evans, AJ Burch , Kia Ravenfar 2/05
Page Views:	90 total · 1/month
Shared By:	David Evans on Feb 26, 2005
Admins:	C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start Muffin Bandits by coming in from the left. Climb horizontal face holds just right of a crack to a ledgy area. Walk right 15' on a sloping ledge. Climb up and right placing pro in a horizontal and then higher in a straight up thin crack. Step right and tiptoe up to a knob (5.10b/c). It is possible to sling the knob for pro. Mantle onto a ledge and walk right to the dihedral of Muffin Bandits. These features can be seen in Bartlett's Wonderland Guide just to the right of the L that marks where Science Experiments You Can Eat starts.