All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland North > Middle Kingdom > Techulator

Muffin Bandits

Name: Muffin Bandits
Rating: 1.5

5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in The Techulator

L › R R › L A › Z

	Chute To Kill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	E. B. Bon Homme T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Friendly Fists T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Garden Path T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	High and Dry (AKA Short But Flared) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Muffin Bandits T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Muffin Head T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Pillar Of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Slow Mutants T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Spire Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Too Thin For Poodles T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Under A Raging Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Wren's Nest T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	Dennis Yates and Roger Linfield
Page Views:	325 total · 2/month
Shared By:	David Evans on Feb 28, 2005
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The most striking route on the middle section of The Techulator is the hanging dihedral of Muffin Bandits. Apparently the first ascent party climbed directly into the dihedral via the thin crack which is the lower continuation of the crack which comes down out of the dihedral. This start may be a bit loose. Climb the dihedral via an interesting combination of finger jamming, stemming and face holds. It is also possible to climb into the dihedral from horizontals to a knob just below the left end of a ledge which is at the bottom of the dihedral (5.10b?).