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Two Bit Shuffle
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
Routes in Glitter Box Area
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[5.6 line] T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Adios Larry S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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All That Glitters T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ample Virginity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Are We Smokin The Same Stuff S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Batteries Not Included T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Can-Am Highway T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Changes in Attitude S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cowpoke S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Damsel's Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Damsels in Distress T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Donde Esta Larry? S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Eyes of the World S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Gold S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hammerhead T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hidden Splendor S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hola Larry! S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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It's Not a Seizure It's a Dance Move S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jaws T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lost in the 1990's S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ojos del Diablo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Route Out TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Splendid Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sublime Line S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Summer Assault T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Three Amigos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trickle and Resin T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Two Bit Shuffle T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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World Vision T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 125 ft (38 m) |
| GPS: | 33.27681, -111.02935 |
| FA: | Mark Trainor, Mike Layden 3/91 |
| Page Views: | 767 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | arjunmh on Apr 3, 2011 |
| Admins: | Zach Levy, Sierra Blair, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area
Details
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.
You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website – theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page – facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…
Description
From Marty's guide: "Climb up the face past 3 bolts to a ledge. Continue up the face past 1 more bolt into a vertical crack. As the crack splits in two, follow the right crack to its end and then up the face to a 2 bolt belay on the top. 140'. Double line rap. Sm-med cams, stoppers helpful."
I have to add that the gear is not only helpful, it's necessary as there are no bolts above the single one just above the ledge. Also, the pro is pretty bad and it's hard to imagine what Marty meant by going "into the crack" as I did my best to avoid it as it seemed quite sketchy. Pro was mediocre at best, but fortunately the climbing is significantly easier than the 10c feeling face climb to get to the ledge.
Location
Just to the left of "Summer Assault" in the most wonderful of hidden glens that is located uphill and north of "Adios Larry", "Sublime Line" etc. area. From the start of Sublime go up and around the small block of rock and find the tree filled alley that feels magical. The three bolts on the face below the overhang that you need to clear to get to the ledge should be visible on your left as you get past the last tree. If you think you can stem to the first bolt you've arrived at "Summer Assault", which starts about 20' to the right of this one.
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