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Routes in Glitter Box Area

Adios Larry S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
All That Glitters T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ample Virginity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Are We Smokin The Same Stuff S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Batteries Not Included T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Can-Am Highway T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Changes in Attitude S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Damsel's Arete S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Damsels in Distress T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Donde Esta Larry? S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Eyes of the World S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Gold S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hammerhead T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hidden Splendor S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hola Larry! S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
It's not a seizure it's a dance move S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jaws T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ojos del Diablo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route Out TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Splendid Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sublime Line S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Summer Assault T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tar Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Three Amigos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trickle and Resin T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Bit Shuffle T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
World Vision T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 125 ft
FA: Mark Trainor, Mike Layden 3/91
Page Views: 51 total, 1/month
Shared By: arjunmh on Apr 3, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

From Marty's guide: "Climb up the face past 3 bolts to a ledge. Continue up the face past 1 more bolt into a vertical crack. As the crack splits in two, follow the right crack to its end and then up the face to a 2 bolt belay on the top. 140'. Double line rap. Sm-med cams, stoppers helpful."

I have to add that the gear is not only helpful, it's necessary as there are no bolts above the single one just above the ledge. Also, the pro is pretty bad and it's hard to imagine what Marty meant by going "into the crack" as I did my best to avoid it as it seemed quite sketchy. Pro was mediocre at best, but fortunately the climbing is significantly easier than the 10c feeling face climb to get to the ledge.

Location

Just to the left of "Summer Assault" in the most wonderful of hidden glens that is located uphill and north of "Adios Larry", "Sublime Line" etc. area. From the start of Sublime go up and around the small block of rock and find the tree filled alley that feels magical. The three bolts on the face below the overhang that you need to clear to get to the ledge should be visible on your left as you get past the last tree. If you think you can stem to the first bolt you've arrived at "Summer Assault", which starts about 20' to the right of this one.

Protection

I used 2-3 C3s as well as single to 1", perhaps taking two .3 and .4s just in case.

Photos

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