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Two Bit Shuffle
5.10c PG13,
Trad, Sport, 125 ft (38 m),
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: Mark Trainor, Mike Layden 3/91
Arizona
> Central Arizona
> Queen Creek Canyon
> Lower Devil's C…
> Glitter Box Area
Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area
Details
Climbing at The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area are private property, and now requires that you register in order to gain legal access. This is an easy process. You can do this at:
queencreekclimbing.com/.
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.
You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website –
theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page –
facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…
Description
From Marty's guide: "Climb up the face past 3 bolts to a ledge. Continue up the face past 1 more bolt into a vertical crack. As the crack splits in two, follow the right crack to its end and then up the face to a 2 bolt belay on the top. 140'. Double line rap. Sm-med cams, stoppers helpful."
I have to add that the gear is not only helpful, it's necessary as there are no bolts above the single one just above the ledge. Also, the pro is pretty bad and it's hard to imagine what Marty meant by going "into the crack" as I did my best to avoid it as it seemed quite sketchy. Pro was mediocre at best, but fortunately the climbing is significantly easier than the 10c feeling face climb to get to the ledge.
Location
Just to the left of "Summer Assault" in the most wonderful of hidden glens that is located uphill and north of "Adios Larry", "Sublime Line" etc. area. From the start of Sublime go up and around the small block of rock and find the tree filled alley that feels magical. The three bolts on the face below the overhang that you need to clear to get to the ledge should be visible on your left as you get past the last tree. If you think you can stem to the first bolt you've arrived at "Summer Assault", which starts about 20' to the right of this one.
Protection
I used 2-3 C3s as well as single to 1", perhaps taking two .3 and .4s just in case.
[Hide Photo] Arjun on the sporty start to "Two Bit Shuffle"
[Hide Photo] 2nd bolt of "Two Bit" should be visible. Clear the "overhang" to the left of the roof visible. Vertical crack visible up high. "Summer Assault" goes up the right hand arete down low to crack and fa…