Avg: 3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 140 ft (42 m)|
|FA:||Mark Trainor, Mike Lyden, 8/91|
|Page Views:||1,001 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||arjunmh on May 11, 2010|
|Admins:||Aaron Mc, Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd|
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Fresh webbing at this writing, but it can be removed now as I've now put anchors with quick-links and biners (NOT booty, please do not remove) for easy rapping/lowering. The anchors are just to the left, midway between this climb and "Two Bit Shuffle."
This is another of what I think of as the classic long awesome Lower Devils routes, along with Damsels and Adios Larry. Would guess that running it out like a sport route will not appeal to most folks. "Two Bit Shuffle" just to the left of this climb is not nearly as cool a line as this one and is 10c because of the roof near the bottom and the sketchy pro.
The "sport start" in Marty's book makes this climb harder than the 10b rating that is apt for the rest of it. It's a technical, edgy, delicate and quite difficult set of face moves that are well into the 5.11 range. Fun, crimpy and challenging, but the first bolt is high and an unexpected fall may hurt.
3/27/11 - 4/2/11: Also note that the "old bolts" that Roman mentions below are all the thin SMC bolts that were recalled and are documented for failing. I did this climb again and took special care to place supplemental gear in the runout sections as a long fall would not be good on these bolts. I not put in a better anchors, but replacing the bolts is a bigger job than I was ready for.