Type: Trad, Sport, 140 ft
FA: Mark Trainor, Mike Lyden, 8/91
Page Views: 668 total · 6/month
Shared By: arjunmh on May 11, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

"Sporty start move. Climb up the face past 3 bolts into a short vertical crack to a face with horizontal cracks and 6 more bolts to a 2 bolt belay on the top. Double line rap." A 70 m rope will put you at the level of the 1st bolt, at which point you can easily stem and down climb. A 60 m rope is too short to enable you to swing out to the top of the adjacent buttress.

Fresh webbing at this writing, but it can be removed now as I've now put anchors with quick-links and biners (NOT booty, please do not remove) for easy rapping/lowering. The anchors are just to the left, midway between this climb and "Two Bit Shuffle."

This is another of what I think of as the classic long awesome Lower Devils routes, along with Damsels and Adios Larry. Would guess that running it out like a sport route will not appeal to most folks. "Two Bit Shuffle" just to the left of this climb is not nearly as cool a line as this one and is 10c because of the roof near the bottom and the sketchy pro.

The "sport start" in Marty's book makes this climb harder than the 10b rating that is apt for the rest of it. It's a technical, edgy, delicate and quite difficult set of face moves that are well into the 5.11 range. Fun, crimpy and challenging, but the first bolt is high and an unexpected fall may hurt.

3/27/11 - 4/2/11: Also note that the "old bolts" that Roman mentions below are all the thin SMC bolts that were recalled and are documented for failing. I did this climb again and took special care to place supplemental gear in the runout sections as a long fall would not be good on these bolts. I not put in a better anchors, but replacing the bolts is a bigger job than I was ready for.

Location

This is a gem of a find in northern Glitter Box. Walk along the east-facing base of the cliff, past Damsels in Distress and up the scramble to Sublime Line, passing Adios Larry on the upper face. At the base of Sublime Line, skirt around a knob and traverse into a magical hidden glen that is truly a delight to enter. Walk past two big trees and into an alley. The first line of bolts -- you should see 3 up to an overhang, shown in one of my photos -- is "Two Bit Shuffle and the second, which you'll see the first 3 as well is for "Summer Assault".

Protection

9 or 10 bolts that are quite runout. I used 1-3 pieces of pro between several of the middle bolts and the pro was decent, not great. Mostly horizontal small cams.

Photos