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Routes in Glitter Box Area

Adios Larry S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
All That Glitters T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ample Virginity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Are We Smokin The Same Stuff S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Batteries Not Included T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Can-Am Highway T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Changes in Attitude S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Damsel's Arete S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Damsels in Distress T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Donde Esta Larry? S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Eyes of the World S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Gold S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hammerhead T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hidden Splendor S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hola Larry! S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
It's not a seizure it's a dance move S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jaws T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ojos del Diablo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route Out TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Splendid Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sublime Line S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Summer Assault T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tar Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Three Amigos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trickle and Resin T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Bit Shuffle T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
World Vision T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Mark Trainor, Perry Teeters, Marty Karabin
Page Views: 1,521 total, 12/month
Shared By: Alex Hardt on Nov 12, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

The climb is consistent the entire way up. There are the options for some mantel moves, crimping and cam placement in horizontal cracks between bolts.

Although Hidden Splendor is listed as a 5.8 in Karabin's Rock Jock's Guide to Queen Creek Canyon, I think that some (lots?) of holds have broken off - at least it looks that way and compared to other 5.8 climbs in the area like Three Amigos and Smokin' The Toad, this climb seemed a lot harder.

It's a great hidden location in Lower Devils with an interesting approach.

Location

The approach to this climb is part of the fun. This climb is tucked into a gully just north of the Glitter Box area. Go down to the bottom of the Glitter Box (rap down east of Three Amigos or walk around) and follow the trail that heads north along the base of the crag. Just north around the Glitter Box area is a long face climb called Damsels in Distress (5.10b/c). From the base of Damsels in Distress, continue north hiking up the hill until you find a small ledge and small stove-pipe pinnacle. Go south on the ledge toward the pinnacle and scramble up a chimney on the right for about 30 or 40 feet. You will climb out of the chimney into a small open area. From here, squeeeeeze through a narrow slit in the south wall and you will pop out into a scree gully. Hidden Splendor is the north face climb directly in front of you with a tree at the base. There is another bolted climb to the far right (west) in the gully called Changes in Attitude (5.10b) which is to the right of a chimney.

Protection

8 bolt face to a 2 shut rappel. Small cams can be used in horizontal cracks between bolts as needed.

Photos

caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Forget the name, but after Hidden Splendor you can toprope the face to the right off the HS anchors. Also about 5.9, very similar route/climbing, but a good bonus pitch plus pump. Jun 14, 2011
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.9
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.9
Thought this was harder than an 8 -- not moves, but pumpiness factor. Such a fun, hidden gem, though. Love the approach through the "cave." Jun 15, 2009