Type: Trad, Sport, 160 ft
FA: Andy Marquardt Brad Mattingly, /90
Page Views: 1,500 total · 13/month
Shared By: arjunmh on May 11, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

The delightfully long line that is on the east facing face of Glitter Box. To get there, it's just out of the "alley" where "Eyes of the World" is, and about 5-10m north along the base of the cliff. First bolt is about 30' up! It's noted as sport in Marty's book: "Climb up the vertical face past 12 bolts to a 2 shut rap. 160'. Double line rap" (though someone left a quicklink at a bolt about 25 m from the top to enable two single line raps if you trust rapping off one bolt from 1990). A fantastic classic route that he degraded from 3 stars to 2 because of loose rock. It seems to have cleaned up nicely as of this writing, and there was fresh webbing around rap rings up top. I'll bring quicklings and rap rings for my next climb of this awesome line to swap out. Bolts are runout all the way until the last 3 before the top. Small cams to 0.75 and including 00 or equivalent C3 are useful. Many placements are done while quite pumped, hence my PG-13 rating.

Location

An easy (7-8) trad climb to the top, didn't replace any webbing to descend or check the descent from there.

Protection

12 bolts, with 1-3 pieces of pro suggested between bolts for the first 9.

Photos