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Routes in Glitter Box Area

Adios Larry S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
All That Glitters T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ample Virginity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Are We Smokin The Same Stuff S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Batteries Not Included T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Can-Am Highway T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Changes in Attitude S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Damsel's Arete S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Damsels in Distress T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Donde Esta Larry? S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Eyes of the World S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Gold S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hammerhead T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hidden Splendor S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hola Larry! S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
It's not a seizure it's a dance move S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jaws T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ojos del Diablo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route Out TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Splendid Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sublime Line S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Summer Assault T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tar Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Three Amigos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trickle and Resin T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Bit Shuffle T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
World Vision T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 160 ft
FA: Andy Marquardt Brad Mattingly, /90
Page Views: 1,330 total, 15/month
Shared By: arjunmh on May 11, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

The delightfully long line that is on the east facing face of Glitter Box. To get there, it's just out of the "alley" where "Eyes of the World" is, and about 5-10m north along the base of the cliff. First bolt is about 30' up! It's noted as sport in Marty's book: "Climb up the vertical face past 12 bolts to a 2 shut rap. 160'. Double line rap" (though someone left a quicklink at a bolt about 25 m from the top to enable two single line raps if you trust rapping off one bolt from 1990). A fantastic classic route that he degraded from 3 stars to 2 because of loose rock. It seems to have cleaned up nicely as of this writing, and there was fresh webbing around rap rings up top. I'll bring quicklings and rap rings for my next climb of this awesome line to swap out. Bolts are runout all the way until the last 3 before the top. Small cams to 0.75 and including 00 or equivalent C3 are useful. Many placements are done while quite pumped, hence my PG-13 rating.

Location

An easy (7-8) trad climb to the top, didn't replace any webbing to descend or check the descent from there.

Protection

12 bolts, with 1-3 pieces of pro suggested between bolts for the first 9.
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Fixed the midway anchor a bit on this, but will ultimately need to either add a 1/2" hanger to the strange 1/2" bolt plus nut setup, or get rid of that and simply add another 3/8" bolt and hanger. Didn't get to it while recently setting "Damsel's Arete" and Splendid "Arete". Posting those now. Jan 9, 2017
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Great Pitch! place 2 supplemental pieces.

Thank you to whomever chopped the "retro-bolt" of this! Dec 3, 2015
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
So great to get back on this incredible climb after many a year -- it remains one of my favorites for the area!

Even with my "cool head" I was happy to have a couple supplemental pieces: one for below the first bolt and another small one for up higher.

Some wise soul put in a second bolt to create a hanging rap station such that this can be rapped with a single line (60 m no problem). But this wise soul used a 1/2" bolt and rigged a 3/8" hanger on top of the rap anchor as a very odd way to rig it. Reminder to self, the wise soul, or anyone else with a wrench, a 1/2" hanger and a bit of good will to set this straight on the next time up. It is VERY nice to not have to carry two ropes in simply to do this climb. Of course, the other option is to top out on the formation, using some gear, after belaying the second up. Nov 23, 2015
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10b PG13
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10b PG13
It's been years since my last trip up the route. I got full fun value by not having to worry about the rope weight or where the last bolt was by taking the second position. Just pull and go; what a luxury. Clean & fun!

Note: I couldn't quite remember the deal with the rap but you can rap using a single 60' rope if you don't mind breaking it into two raps and utilizing the mid-point shut placement. Otherwise, best to bring two cords for the rap from the top. Mar 20, 2011
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
This thing is way bitchin! No supplemental gear necessary with a cool head. Mar 19, 2011
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.10 PG13
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.10 PG13
Very long pitch with committing climbing. A few small cams can be placed before the first bolt and periodically during the climb. Nov 27, 2010
roman d
Pasadena, CA
5.10 PG13
roman d   Pasadena, CA
5.10 PG13
This climb is pretty intimidating from the base - steep enduro climbing with widely spaced bolts. Classic for sure. Nov 15, 2010