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Routes in Glitter Box Area

Adios Larry S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
All That Glitters T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ample Virginity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Are We Smokin The Same Stuff S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Batteries Not Included T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Can-Am Highway T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Changes in Attitude S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Damsel's Arete S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Damsels in Distress T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Donde Esta Larry? S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Eyes of the World S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Gold S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hammerhead T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hidden Splendor S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hola Larry! S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
It's not a seizure it's a dance move S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jaws T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ojos del Diablo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Route Out TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Splendid Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sublime Line S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Summer Assault T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tar Baby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Three Amigos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trickle and Resin T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Bit Shuffle T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
World Vision T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Perry Teeters, Manuel Rangle, 4/91
Page Views: 1,076 total, 10/month
Shared By: arjunmh on Jun 15, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Start on the big ledge that you take to get to Hidden Splendor. Face to ramp with 2 bolt anchor. Bolts are widely spaced, having just a few small-med cams and stoppers will help the runout. Key hold to clear the roof-like top move is now gone (sorry) and protecting this last move is wise.

Location

East facing cliff in Glitter Box. #42 in Marty's book, #25 on foldout map.

Protection

Solid bolts, having some trad to supplement will help.

Photos

arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Did this again yesterday and noticed a nice new bolt on the bulge (crux) about half way through the "2nd pitch" (quotes as I like to do it as a long single pitch). What's up with the new bolt? Must say that it's a better bolt and better placed than the one right below it, so was kind of nice to have, but it still raises the concern about placing additional bolts on routes. I know that Greg Opland noted the same on some other routes. May 1, 2017
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Most excellent climb indeed! Single enduro pitch is definitely the way to go. The tat on the top anchors needs clearing (I didn't have a knife yesterday) and we chose to walk over to the anchors for "Sublime Line" rather than use the rotten sling/chord. I agree that moving the anchors, adding new rap anchors down off the top, or adding lengths of chain to the existing ones is a must do for this fantastic route. I'll make a note if I manage to do it. Dec 5, 2015
roman d
Pasadena, CA
  5.10b
roman d   Pasadena, CA
  5.10b
As with most routes in Lower Devils, it's wise to bring a light rack to ease the runouts. Feb 10, 2013
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.10b R
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
  5.10b R
Nice route, but there is about a 20ft. run-out over 10-ish climbing. That puts the fall at 40 plus rope stretch maybe 50 ft. Placing you in range of plenty of objective hazards. having said that, it was a great climb at or near the grade for a very long distance. Great as an endurance pitch. Not a good lead for the new to 10's climber. There is likely pro in the run-out, but your gonna be pumped by the time you get there, eh? Feb 10, 2013
RyanJames
  5.10 PG13
RyanJames  
  5.10 PG13
This is a great climb that would really benefit from a change of location of the anchors. A MUCH better spot for them would be about five to ten feet lower beneath the lip of cliff. Then you wouldn't have to worry about rapping off of the rats nest of sun-bleached tat. Other than that, this climb was great! No gear needed. Jan 6, 2013
Nate Young
Phoenix
  5.10b PG13
Nate Young   Phoenix
  5.10b PG13
The first pitch is a mid 5.9 with a tad bit of runout with a few of the bolts (only because it's slabby and you'd most likely hit a couple ledges on the fall). The second pitch was really fun and had some technical sections. I got pretty pumped about halfway through the second pitch, so pace yourself. I also pulled off a couple good sized chunks of rock up at the top couple bolts, so be safe and wear a helmet if you belay! Nov 25, 2012
roman d
Pasadena, CA
  5.10b
roman d   Pasadena, CA
  5.10b
Excellent climb, just gets steeper and steeper. Probably best to do as one long enduro pitch. Nov 15, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.10b PG13
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.10b PG13
the "ugly betty" alien is the gold (actually brown-bronze colored) alien - the size between red and orange. heinous color, good cam. :) Aug 6, 2009