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> Joshua Tree NP
> Queen Valley Area
> Queen Mountain
> Walt's Rocks
> Upper Walt's Rocks
Upper Mojave
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.3 from 4
votes
Routes in Upper Walt's Rocks
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1995 Budget Closure S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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At Your Pleasure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack Queen T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Drag Queen T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Endorphine T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Killer Queen S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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King of Queens TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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King of Queens, Direct Finish TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mojave Queen T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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No Pleasure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rain Man TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Red Rain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Route Beer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Upper Mojave T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Where Were You? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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White Rain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 34.05826, -116.10088 |
| FA: | Kevin Daniels, Tony Sartin |
| Page Views: | 1,388 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Snyder on Feb 15, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Clip a bolt and then launch into excellent 5.10 crack climbing that is right slanting offering up challenging locks and thin face for your feet. The crux is definitely the face climbing after the crack, but is well protected.
Location
Climbs the leftmost of the 3 prominent parallel cracks on the Upper Walts face. Begins on top of ledge just left of large chimney where Mojave Queen starts. You can climb the chimney (haven't done this), climb the sporty route to the left of the chimney, or access via rappell after topping out on White Rain or Mojave Queen (preferable). 2 raps to the ground from the top with 60M rope. Anchors are to the left of the topout. See photo of all routes in Upper Walts Rocks for location.
Photos
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