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Routes in Upper Walt's Rocks

1995 Budget Closure S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
At Your Pleasure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack Queen T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Drag Queen T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mojave Queen T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Route Beer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Upper Mojave T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Where Were You? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
White Rain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Walt Shipley, 1989
Page Views: 4,230 total, 22/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Jan 13, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

White Rain is a fantastic mixed pro climb; one of the few to get 5 stars in Randy's guide book.

The route begins on a large boulder uphill from Mojave Queen (5.11a). It is prudent to stick clip the first bolt before stepping onto the steep face. Sustained face climbing past six bolts on fine patina brings the climber to cruxy moves that gain the short finger/hand crack. A few challenging moves in the crack lead to the top.

Protection

Pro includes QD's for 6 bolts, a few small TCU's (#1 - #3), and a few small - medium cams for a short crack to finish the climb. Rappel from a two bolt anchor with chains/rings at the top.
D. Evans
Tustin, California
D. Evans   Tustin, California
Roy McClenahan led this the day we did the FA of Cowboy Junkies and I thought it was continuously hard, i.e. hard to start and hard between every bolt. As Murph noted the crux was up high. 11a/b for sure. Apr 19, 2015
C Miller   CA  
Walt rated this 5.10d on the first ascent. Mar 25, 2013
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
The Rock quality cannot be overstated. This was exactly what I was expecting after all the queen mountain rock hype. I thought the crux was at the beginning moving off a big ball of a jug. 3rd bolt is dodgey.. This is definitely easier than Mojave Queen. Mar 25, 2013
Tough climb. 3rd bolt looks old and dodgy.

At the top of the climb, on the left side, is a pile of broken boulders. Just left of this pile, 15-ish feet from the top-out, is the bolted rap anchor for Mojave Queen. A 70m rope barely got me to the ground by tensioning right (uphill), toward the base of White Rain. Feb 4, 2013
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11a
When we did this route several years ago, and we felt the crux came immediately after the first bolt (which we stick-clipped). Add this with Murf's comment and you get the picture (alot of good moves). At the top were one meanders right to the shallow crack, dont be tempted to go up at or before this point. As I recall, moving a bit to the right of this before heading up made it easier. 5.10-ish in this section. Found rap bolts via the right shoulder of this rock. Overall a wonderful route in a pristine area. Highly recommended. Apr 25, 2006
Murf
  5.11a
Murf  
  5.11a
Deserves every star, stellar line..
Clipping the first bolt can be done safely with a "boulder belay". I felt the crux was past the last bolt.

RE: Description of rappel. There is no rap anchor at the top of WR. You can rap from the top of Mojave Queen, below and climber's left from the top of WR. It is a double rope rap for 60m ropes. Apr 17, 2006
Randy
  5.11a
Randy  
  5.11a
The moves near the top (up to the crack seemed pretty stout and definitely require care. Jun 3, 2004