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Routes in Upper Walt's Rocks

1995 Budget Closure S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
At Your Pleasure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack Queen T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Drag Queen T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mojave Queen T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Route Beer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Upper Mojave T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Where Were You? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
White Rain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Walt Shipley
Page Views: 1,901 total, 10/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Jan 20, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the obvious crack just right of Drag Queen. Powerful moves off the deck in a steep fingers / hand crack gain a pod. Awkward moves out of the pod lead to some nice fist jams to the top. Some loose rock but overall an excellent climb.

Protection

Primarily small to large cams (to 4.5") and stoppers are sufficient for pro. Small to Medium cams are required to build an anchor. Rappel off of the anchor for Drag Queen.

Photos

fossana
leeds, ut
 
fossana   leeds, ut
 
Walk-off option to the right (requires crawling through the small tunnel and topping out). For me the hand crack after the bulge was harder than the bulge, partly b/c it's slick with crumbly sections and partly b/c my non-finger crack technique leaves something to be desired. Jun 15, 2010
Sustained, powerful, quality crack climbing on a long pitch that requires everything from finger jams to OW/squeeze chimney moves. Slightly detracted by a few chossy sections, but still a 4-star route. One of my favorite JTree cracks. Nov 8, 2006
Randy
  5.11a
Randy  
  5.11a
This route will eventually be a 4/5 star classic (4 stars here). The moderate amount of loose stuff will quickly clean up once it sees a few more ascents. One of the better crack routes in Josh. Apr 22, 2004