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Routes in Upper Walt's Rocks

1995 Budget Closure S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
At Your Pleasure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack Queen T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Drag Queen T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mojave Queen T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Route Beer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Upper Mojave T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Where Were You? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
White Rain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Description

This is a cliff stacked with quality lines that more than make up for the somewhat lengthy (especially by Josh standards) approach. The rock is typically of exceptional quality with dark patina throughout and the cracks are often parallel, deep and smooth - none of that light-colored grain so common in the rest of the Park!

Numerous multi-star crack and face routes exisit up to 150 feet in length although most are around 100 feet or so. The only catch is the majority of the best routes are 5.11a and harder, although exceptions do exist.

Some of the best here include At Your Pleasure (5.8), Escape to Queen Mountain (5.10a), White Rain (5.11a), Mojave Queen (5.11a), Crack Queen (5.11a), Upper Mojave (5.11a) and Drag Queen (5.11c R).

Routes listed from left to right:

Route Beer (5.11a)
Get with the Plan (5.10b)
Hellish Planet (5.10d)
At Your Pleasure (5.8)
Where Were You? (5.10a)
Unknown (5.10a)
Upper Mojave (5.11a)
Mojave Queen (5.11a)
White Rain (5.11a)

Just right of a small break in the cliffline are

Endorphine (5.10d)
Drag Queen (5.11c R)
No Metal Wasted (5.9+ R)
Crack Queen (5.11a)

And about 200' right of White Rain is

Escape to Queen Mountain (5.10a)

Getting There

See the Walt's Rock page for detailed approach information.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Walt's Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
At Your Pleasure
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
White Rain
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Queen
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Upper Mojave
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mojave Queen
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
At Your Pleasure 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
White Rain 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Crack Queen 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Upper Mojave 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Mojave Queen 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Upper Walt's Rocks »

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Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
Descent beta : A lot of options under the various routes have been mentioned for rapping off the top. With one 60m it's pretty easy to rap "where were you" from the very top. This bolted anchor is easily spotted to climber's left of a small break to the left of mojave queen and upper mojave. After "where were you" you'll be on the halfway ledge and one more rap (1995 budget closure I think) will take you to the ground.

This is really the simple and obvious thing to do. There is no need for two ropes, swinging uphill with a 70, or any sort of improbable walk off. This has probably been said already but here it is again. Mar 25, 2013

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