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Routes in Upper Walt's Rocks

1995 Budget Closure S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
At Your Pleasure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack Queen T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Drag Queen T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mojave Queen T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Route Beer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Upper Mojave T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Where Were You? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
White Rain T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,844 total, 15/month
Shared By: tony grice on Dec 6, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route starts up hill and left of white rain, a hand crack goes out the left side of a huge chimney with chockstones. Follow this straight up through a nice jamming section to a slot with a nolina. Continue past the bush to the top.

Location

Hike up and left of White Rain about 100 yds till you see a huge chimney/gully with chockstone. The route starts on the right side of the chimney.

Easy approach from the top of Perfect Fingers.

Protection

Standard trad rack up to 2.5 inch, nuts too. Runners.Trad anchor . Rap off bolts for nearby sporty climb with 60 m rope.

Photos

BrettAtBond
  5.8
BrettAtBond  
  5.8
Thanks for clearing out the ants for us Kevin. I saw a few and my second saw none. The ants weren't biting.

Fun climb for the grade. Steep and varied. 2 single rope raps to the climbers right take you to the ground. Good combo with K2R or perfect fingers to avoid climbing the routes on lower walts with your packs (both have chimney sections). Feb 16, 2015
kmyee
Los Angeles, CA
kmyee   Los Angeles, CA
Climbed it on 2/14/2015, LOTS OF ANTS. Otherwise a fun route. The party that climbed it maybe an hour after us didn't experience any of the little biting buggers when they did it though. Moral of the story: if you're thinking of doing this route, have someone else do it first to clean off all the ants! Feb 14, 2015
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
Dan, I think the descent you described is the best way off. Mar 25, 2013
roman d
Pasadena, CA
 
roman d   Pasadena, CA
 
The traverse makes the climb - highly recommended! Feb 5, 2013
Tradiban  
 
One of the only easy climbs around here and good for a warm up. No ants for me either. Also, it starts out of the right side of the chimney not the left as stated in the description. Feb 3, 2013
Lou Hibbard
Eagan, MN
Lou Hibbard   Eagan, MN
Because of the elevation not recommended on cold days. Very cold when we were there. Oct 29, 2011
Dan G0D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
Dan G0D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
No ants at the end of December (too busy hunting for the after Christmas sales....) What's the best way off this thing? We ended up rapping off of the mixed route to the right, down to a ledge, walking climbers right to a bulge with anchors and rapping a second time down to the area near the base of White Rain. A 70 was definitely not long enough to rap off of Mojave Queen (to the left of White Rain.) Jan 7, 2011
Taryn
San Diego, CA
  5.8-
Taryn   San Diego, CA
  5.8-
Ants! I don't even remember the moves on the bottom part of this climb. I was too busy being covered in ants! AG! Still, it was a fun route. Maybe the ants are seasonal? Apr 8, 2008
ChugachMan
  5.8-
ChugachMan  
  5.8-
My friend Taryn experienced the ants on lead on April 5th, but when I followed I saw a total of four! I think she carried them all to the top crawling all over her... does anybody know what the bolted route about 40 feet to the right of this is called (marked in blue on Tony's map)? It goes up the face, and I'd guess the upper part is in the 9- or 10a range (we didn't climb the lower part though)... it's a sweet route, and a bit heady if you don't bring a couple pieces of gear to place between the 2 and 3rd bolts of the second pitch. Apr 8, 2008
Scotty Nelson
Boulder
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
Was full of biting red ants when I did it last weekend. Mar 5, 2008
tony grice  
 
Enlarge topo photo to full size.
The yellow dots are "at your pleasure" 5.8
The red dot Variation was awsome. Not shure what the name of what we did is but It was cool. Nice and long too. Sunny rock , awsome hike. Can't ask for much more.
Go up the start of at your pleasure , when you enter the slot below the nolina plant hang a hard right ,do an unprotected face traverse ( R for follower too. Definately not the crux, heads up but not scary) nice little posi holds and huge feet get you across the trverse into a stellar traversing hand crack with a Juggy finish I'd say 5.8 for the whole thing. Great gear all the way execpt for the balancy face traverse. Awsome route. Kinda pumpy, Nice!
Do It! Dec 7, 2007