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Routes in Lei Pi Shan

Crash and Burn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Douche Baguette S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Honky tonk S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jeja S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lightning S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Name? S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
One Love S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Power Of One, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Single Life S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Singularity S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thunder S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Waiting for Sophy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Chen Xie Wei (Sept. 2008)
Page Views: 495 total · 6/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Feb 14, 2011
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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'Thunder' is like 'lightning' in that it is a popular climb to the first set of anchors. The similarites stop there. Climbing to the first set of anchors is 12c. Start by negotiating your way up a blank looking slab that is not as blank as it appears. After a good rest fly through numerous crux-like sequences on super positive crimps. It is similar to climbing on postive jibs in a rock gym.

Weasel your way up on a tufa after clipping the first anchor. Rest up here for some truely cryptic movement. The first sequence involves setting up in an awkward undercling position before unfurling a coordinated dynamic move to a slopey left hand pocket. Quickly catch your breath and then set up for a three points off dyno to a great jug. From here carefully meander your way through pumpy slopey pods and tufas to the anchor. This route is much more bouldery than 'Lightning.' I have not redpointed the upper portion and am fine with the description being updated if someone else has better info.


Next route to the Left of 'Lightning,' in the center of the cliff. Look for a slopey 10" diameter pod at the first bolt.


16 bolts (estimate). Unclipping the bolt above the first set of anchors will spare your rope of some tufa abrasion.


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