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Routes in Lei Pi Shan

Artful Dodger, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crash and Burn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Douche Baguette S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Honky tonk S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jeja S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lightning S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
One Love S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pickpocket S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Power Of One, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Single Life S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Singularity S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thunder S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Vedro S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Waiting for Sophy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Elevation: 594 ft
GPS: 24.7, 110.467 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,832 total · 30/month
Shared By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Dec 26, 2010 with updates from Becky Westerinen
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball
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One of the premier crags of Yangshuo, perhaps second only to White Mountain. Though Lei Pi has fewer routes, it boasts some of the best hard routes on some of the best stone, and in fact has relatively few moderates to warm up on. The uber-classic (and long) 14's Lightning and Thunder are found here, as well as a slew of top-quality 12s and 13s. Many folks head to Lei Pi to test their mettle on the hard test pieces they've heard about: Singularity, Thunder, Single Life to name a few.

Lei Pi Shan is well protected from the rain and is shady in the afternoon during the summer; it goes into the shade earlier later in the year. It stays dry even after other crags have seeped through -- but it will eventually seep through as well if the rain persists for a couple weeks.

Its location is (unfortunately) right next to the road, but the crag itself is stunning even if its location isn't as classic as other YS destinations. It can get quite crowded, though I've seen upwards of 40 people here, and everyone seemed to still be getting on routes despite there being a chord on almost every line. Obviously, there are other days when you'll have the crag to yourself.

Getting There

This is one of the furthest cliffs from Yangshuo, about 10km south of the town near the village of Gao Tian. The easiest way to get there is to take one of the public buses to Gao Tian (should be 2.5 to 3 yuan/person) all the way past Moon Hill to where the bus makes its final stop in the village. From there, either keep walking the last km or so to the crag or catch one of the readily available moto-taxis for an additional 5 yuan or so.

Another good option is to ride your push bike or scooter - push bike is only about 40 minutes each way, and is a great way to warm up. From West Street, ride east and south through the road-cut, keeping right at the fork to the next big round about. Go straight on, going south past Wine Bottle, Banyan Tree, and Moon Hill. Another several km's will bring you to Gao Tian. Keep going for about another km.

The crag is on the right (west) side of the road, and will jump out at you as you approach it from the road. A short trail (all of 2 minutes of walking) will put you up the small hill to the base.

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