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Routes in Lei Pi Shan

Artful Dodger, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crash and Burn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Douche Baguette S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Honky tonk S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jeja S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lightning S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
One Love S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pickpocket S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Power Of One, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Single Life S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Singularity S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thunder S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Vedro S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Waiting for Sophy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Joe Picalli, Oct 2006
Page Views: 430 total · 5/month
Shared By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Dec 26, 2010
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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One of several uber-classics at Lei Pi Shan, Singularity is fun climbing literally from the first bolt to the last. It has more or less 2 distinct sections: fun, technical face climbing up to the base of a long tufas, which are then climbed up to the anchors. The route is listed at 7a+ (12a) in the guide, but a somewhat key bolt clipping hold has since broken, and it is likely at 12b now. The crux may well be one of the clips, though the move past this bolt isn't easy regardless. Keep your head through the tufa section -- though easier, the distance between the bolts feels long and the pump begins to take its toll. Even turning the final last couple moves before the anchor can feel exhilarating.

This route is undoubtedly one the best at its grade in Yangshuo.


Right of center on the main wall at Lei Pi, Singularity is located a couple routes right of the uber-classic Single Life (~13b/c). Look for the prominent black streak and long-tailed, "ice cream cone" tufa which forms the upper section.


Bolts to a 2 bolt-fixed anchor.


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