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Routes in Lei Pi Shan

Crash and Burn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Douche Baguette S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Honky tonk S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jeja S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lightning S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Name? S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
One Love S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Power Of One, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Single Life S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Singularity S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thunder S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Waiting for Sophy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Chen Xie Wei (Aug. 2007)
Page Views: 689 total, 8/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Feb 14, 2011
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

'Lightning' seems to be the best entry level hard route in Yangshuo. Its best to tick this beauty off before embarking on some of the more serious projects at White Mountain. Originally Yangshuo's first 14a, the route has since been downrated to an honest 13d.

The first half of the climb is a route known as Single life (13b), which is a worthy venture in its own right. Getting to the first set of anchors features bold moves between crimps and tufa pinches. A knee bar or two in this lower section will help you to depump for the redpoint crux of 'Lightning.'

The climb greatly changes character after the first set of anchors. Two bolts of slightly less steep, technical climbing lead you to the redpoint crux. Crimp hard through the crux and then sail through some novelty tufa climbing to the anchors.

Location

This is the centerpiece route of Lei Pi Shan. Look for a rocky pedestal at the base of the route and a dark hueco at the 6th bolt.

Protection

Lots of bolts (around 22?), some of which you will probably want to skip. A long sling on the bolt above the dark hueco is a good idea.

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