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Routes in Lei Pi Shan

Artful Dodger, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crash and Burn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Douche Baguette S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Honky tonk S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jeja S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lightning S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
One Love S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pickpocket S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Power Of One, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Single Life S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Singularity S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thunder S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Vedro S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Waiting for Sophy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Simon Wilson and some thieving bastard (from guide), 2006/7
Page Views: 240 total · 3/month
Shared By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Dec 26, 2010
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route

2 Opinions

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This is perhaps the epitome of a one-move-crux route: mostly moderate climbing (mid-11) relative to the grade leads to a hard, in-your-face boulder move with crappy feet. Another 2 or 3 moves of mid-12 above the bolts leads to the final, easier stretch to the anchors.

Still: though the route isn't sustained, its all fun climbing and an overall good time.


One Love starts on the far left of the main area. Step on to the small ledge left of the obvious crack route (Waiting For Sophie). After making a couple moves left, climb straight up moderate terrain through large ledges and pockets to a final large hueco (that often has birds nest debris in it). There, the angle kicks from overhanging to vertical or just less than, and the business begins. Make the clip and then the hard move, then gun it to the anchors.


Bolts to a 2 bolt, fixed anchor. This anchor is shared as the most common stopping point for the 6c+ crack route to the right (Waiting For Sophie).


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