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Routes in Lei Pi Shan

Crash and Burn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Douche Baguette S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Honky tonk S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jeja S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lightning S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Name? S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
One Love S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Power Of One, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Single Life S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Singularity S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thunder S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Waiting for Sophy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Simon Wilson, Nov 2006
Page Views: 245 total, 3/month
Shared By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Dec 26, 2010
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

This is a super-fun route that -- for some -- serves as a warm up for the harder, long routes further right. Power of One is classic pocket pulling through gently overhanging rock. There are a couple cruxes -- the onsight is tricky as some of the key holds are tough to spot. Even after the grade kicks back the climbing stays fun all the way to the anchors.

Location

Start as for One Love, left of the obvious crack (Waiting for Sophie) at the far left of Lei Pi's main wall. Climb left past the start of One Love to the tufa, then up that to the steepest section pockets with long moves and desperate slopers. Turn the corner and then trend up and left to the anchors.

Protection

Bolts to a 2 bolt, fixed anchor.

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