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Routes in Sven Slab

Always & Forever T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Arrowhead, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Black Death T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Cakewalk S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Changes in Attitude T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Changes in Lattitude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Changes in Longitude T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chute, The T,S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Crawl of the Wild, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Criss Cross T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dark Passage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Direct Hop S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ego Trip S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hippity Hop S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I Sinkso T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Left Chute T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Mouse Tracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nit Nat T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
One for the Road T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Over the Hill T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Peaches and Cream T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Quaker Oats S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Student Cracks T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sven's Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Top Line T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown S S A3+
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Damon Williams and Bob Puryear, 1981
Page Views: 1,698 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ted Smith on Jan 14, 2011 with updates from DamonWilliams and 1 other
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access: Details

Description

Crux moves on all three pitches for different reasons. On the first pitch, it is all about clearing the small roof. For the second pitch, there is a tricky start to get into the right arching crack. The third pitch is a bit difficult to protect due to the crack shape, but it can be done safely.

Damon W. adds: Originally done in 2 pitches, but breaking it up into 3 pitches as noted in description will probably decrease rope drag.

Location

The next route to the left of Black Death, on the way to One for the Road.

Protection

Tapers, cams from Metolius 1 to BD 6 (for anchoring).

Photos

ryan c
Phoenix, AZ
ryan c   Phoenix, AZ
Went to do this on 4/12/14 and in the crack just below the roof bee's have set up a hive there. I got within 15' of it to be sure. I am not a person fazed by bee's like a lot of folk but I didn't feel safe going there. Considering the quality of Mouse Tracks and Mouse Trap, there are other good trad routes to take a first time follower or have a chill lead in the McD's range that you don't have to worry about stirring up a bad day by trying to set gear and climb through their home. Apr 15, 2014
Ted Smith
Scottsdale, AZ
  5.6
Ted Smith   Scottsdale, AZ
  5.6
I led this climb about a year ago. It was fine. As long as you save this one for the cooler months and get an early start--say sunrise of just after--so that you are through the climb before it starts warming up, there should be no problem. Of course, the bee situation is very dynamic, so one must always be prepared for warning signs and be willing to change your plans if there is evidence of excessive activity where you were intending to climb.

Climbing this route in the afternoon during the Spring, Summer, and Fall would probably be a mistake--unless the hive has moved--which sometimes happens. Apr 4, 2016
Chris Adams
Mesa, AZ
Chris Adams   Mesa, AZ
Climbed Mouse tracks Last weekend (April 23rd 2016). There's a beehive located roughly 20 feet down and to the right at the start of the offset towards the middle of the first pitch. We climbed right past them (my partners didn't even notice the hive) without any problems. Apr 25, 2016

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