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Routes in Sven Slab

Always & Forever T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Arrowhead, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Black Death T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Cakewalk S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Changes in Attitude T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Changes in Lattitude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Changes in Longitude T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chute, The T,S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Crawl of the Wild, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Criss Cross T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dark Passage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Direct Hop S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ego Trip S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hippity Hop S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I Sinkso T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Left Chute T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Mouse Tracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nit Nat T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
One for the Road T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Over the Hill T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Peaches and Cream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Quaker Oats S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Student Cracks T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sven's Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Top Line T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown S S A3+
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Type: Trad, Sport, 180 ft
FA: Ted Olsen and Dale Low 12/81
Page Views: 1,742 total · 15/month
Shared By: ZEric on Dec 1, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Access: Details

Description

Easy face climb that can be done as one or two pitches (60m rope required for one 185' pitch). Climb face right of bottom belay. 2 bolts at the beginning, horizontal crack part way up for a cam or nut, then 3 more bolts. A bit run out but climbing is pretty easy (you can place pro over in the gully to the left if you wish). There is a ledge 2/3 up with a crack where you can break it into two pitches. Good belay ledge at the top with nice crack for setting up an anchor, or you may be able utilize nearby bushes. Walk off towards the east (rock left).

Location

Right of One for the Road on the far east portion of the Sven slab area.

Protection

5 bolts, small to #1 C4, stoppers. Use 24" alpine draws if you plan to climb it as one long pitch.

Photos

hbert  
The bolted anchor at the top of this route, shared with the trad route on the left side of the route, is too high to reach the ground with a 70 meter rope for a double rope rappel. There is a walk off, following the ledge you stand on at the bolted anchor. Go climbers left across two ledges of easy walking with some plants to (crossing a smaller gully) to a big gully easy to down climb (4th class). Jan 1, 2017
hbert  
I'm not sure what the trad route on the left of The Chute is called. I followed the line that has plants in the pictures of The Chute. There was one bolt on this route and it ends at the same anchors as The Chute. Jan 1, 2017

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