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Routes in Sven Slab

Always & Forever T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Arrowhead, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Black Death T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Cakewalk S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Changes in Attitude T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Changes in Lattitude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Changes in Longitude T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chute, The T,S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Crawl of the Wild, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Criss Cross T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dark Passage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Direct Hop S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ego Trip S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hippity Hop S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I Sinkso T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Left Chute T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Mouse Tracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nit Nat T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
One for the Road T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Over the Hill T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Peaches and Cream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Quaker Oats S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sven's Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Top Line T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,194 total · 9/month
Shared By: Eric Foster on Apr 26, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access: Details

Description

Climb the crack and pass 3 bolts and you will then get to a chockstone for belay anchor. walk off backand to the left.

This is a decent climb thats worth doing if you have already done some of the other routes on the main slab, hit those up first.

Location

To the right of dark passage and the second route to the left of the giant flake. This section is the first wall you see when approaching to the main wall. Down and right from main wall.

Protection

small from .5-1 or small to large nuts.

Photos

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Tim Heid
AZ
  5.8
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.8
Not sure why the description mentions passing 3 bolts, this is a 100% gear route. Can use the Dark Passage anchor up top to TR (with a directional).

Singles to #5 if this is your limit, however I didn't use anything larger than a #3 as the crack pinches down in the back semi-frequently. Jan 17, 2017
climbnowworklater
Colorado Springs
5.9- PG13
climbnowworklater   Colorado Springs
5.9- PG13
Old school rating for sure. I love this climb, one of my favorites. But, the first few moves are not 5.7. We always thought it went at 5.9. Feb 24, 2016
Aaron Collins
Santan Valley, AZ
 
Aaron Collins   Santan Valley, AZ
 
Closer to 5.13 than 5.7 old school my ass.Harder than sphincter boy 5.9 imho:) I hate old school sand bagging MFers. I hope they get arthritis and ED.lol Nov 13, 2015