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Sven Slab Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map This is our best guess at this area's location.
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Routes in Sven Slab

L › R R › L A › Z

	Always & Forever T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Arrowhead, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Black Death T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Cakewalk T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Changes in Attitude T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Changes in Lattitude T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Changes in Longitude T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Chicken Wing Diner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Chute, The T,S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Crawl of the Wild, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Criss Cross T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Dark Passage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Direct Hop S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Ego Trip T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Hippity Hop T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	I Sinkso T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Left Chute T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
	Mouse Tracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Nit Nat T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	One for the Road T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Over the Hill T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Peaches and Cream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Quaker Oats T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Student Cracks T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Student Death Slab TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Sven's Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Top Line T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Unknown Off-width TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Washing Machine Warm up V3 6A
	Washing Machine, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:

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Elevation:	2,000 ft	610 m
GPS:	33.69245, -111.79542 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	67,346 total · 293/month
Shared By:	Orphaned on Feb 3, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Access: Details

The only access issue for this area is the seasonal closure of routes on the north side of Tom's Thumb.
Please be aware of, and abide by the closure when it is in effect!

For more information, please visit scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve

Description

Sven Slab, so named because a Sven saw was used to cut the original trail up to the wall, is probably the most popular granite climbing location near Phoenix after Pinnacle Peak. This is the place to hone those sturdy foot muscles on thin granite crystal and edge climbing. The main wall is home to several nice moderate outings, while the outrigger crag down to the right features some additional harder lines.

Getting There

From the Tom’s Thumb Trailhead:

Head East on Marcus Landslide trail for ~0.35 miles.

Take a right at the sign marking the the climbing area for Sven Slab.

Follow the smaller but well-travelled trail right around large boulder then up and over a small hill. If you're headed for the Nit Nat area, or up to the main slab area, start looking for the climber’s approach trail on the right. If you're headed to the Hawk Boulder, take approach to the left across clearing to boulder in a sunken spot to the east.

For Nit Nat and the Main Slab: Ascend the climber’s approach trail headed directly toward the large prominent Nit Nat flake. Upon reaching Nit Nat wall, follow the trail left along the wall for about 10ft, then follow the well-traveled climber path another 30 or so feet up and right until you reach the base of Sven's slab just left of Quaker Oats.

Be aware that there are lots of maze like paths that people have created in trying to find Sven's Slab. Many of them deadend and lead to bushwhacking. If you are steep rock or squeezing past thick brush... you are on the wrong trail... head back and aim towards Nit Nat.

10-15 minutes and easy with some scrambling.

Approach

From the easternmost (main) parking lot at Tom's Thumb TH, exit headed east on the Marcus Landslide Trail. This will take you east down the hill. Watch for a signed access trail on the right hand side that will take you to the Sven Slab area. Total approach time, 15 or 20 minutes.

30 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sven Slab

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 21 ● The Crawl of the Wild Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 116 ● Quaker Oats Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 13 ● Changes in Longitude Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 59 ● One for the Road Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 20 ● Mouse Tracks Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 51 ● Ego Trip Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R 57 ● I Sinkso Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 33 ● Peaches and Cream Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R 22 ● Black Death Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 27 ● Cakewalk Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 21 ● Nit Nat Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 13 ● Changes in Lattitude Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 15 ● Dark Passage Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 5 ● Always & Forever Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 4 ● Over the Hill Trad