Elevation: 2,000 ft
GPS: 33.692, -111.795 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 56,569 total · 296/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Feb 3, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd
Access Issue: Access: Details

Description

Sven Slab, so named because a Sven saw was used to cut the original trail up to the wall, is probably the most popular granite climbing location near Phoenix after Pinnacle Peak. This is the place to hone those sturdy foot muscles on thin granite crystal and edge climbing. The main wall is home to several nice moderate outings, while the outrigger crag down to the right features some additional harder lines.

Getting There

From the Tom’s Thumb Trailhead:

Head East on Marcus Landslide trail for ~0.35 miles.

Take a right at the sign marking the the climbing area for Sven Slab.  

Follow the smaller but well-travelled trail  right around large boulder  then up and over a small hill. If you're headed for the Nit Nat area, or up to the main slab area, start looking for the climber’s approach trail on the right. If you're headed to the Hawk Boulder, take approach to the left across clearing to boulder in a sunken spot to the east.

For Nit Nat and the Main Slab: Ascend the climber’s approach trail headed directly toward the large prominent Nit Nat flake.  Upon reaching Nit Nat wall, follow the trail left along the wall for about 10ft, then follow the well-traveled climber path another 30 or so feet up and right until you reach the base of Sven's slab just left of Quaker Oats.

Be aware that there are lots of maze like paths that people have created in trying to find Sven's Slab.  Many of them deadend and lead to bushwhacking.  If you are steep rock or squeezing past thick brush... you are on the wrong trail... head back and aim towards Nit Nat.

10-15 minutes and easy with some scrambling.

Approach

From the easternmost (main) parking lot at Tom's Thumb TH, exit headed east on the Marcus Landslide Trail. This will take you east down the hill. Watch for a signed access trail on the right hand side that will take you to the Sven Slab area. Total approach time, 15 or 20 minutes.

McDowell Mountains Trail Map

28 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sven Slab

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 15
The Crawl of the Wild
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 100
Quaker Oats
Sport
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 12
Changes in Longitude
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 50
One for the Road
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 16
Mouse Tracks
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 44
Ego Trip
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 48
I Sinkso
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 28
Peaches and Cream
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 21
Black Death
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 24
Cakewalk
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 12
Nit Nat
Trad, Sport, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
Criss Cross
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 8
Changes in Lattitude
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Dark Passage
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Always & Forever
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Crawl of the Wild
 15
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Quaker Oats
 100
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Changes in Longitude
 12
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
One for the Road
 50
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Mouse Tracks
 16
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Ego Trip
 44
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Sport, TR
I Sinkso
 48
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Sport, TR
Peaches and Cream
 28
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Black Death
 21
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Cakewalk
 24
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Nit Nat
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Sport, TR
Criss Cross
 11
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Changes in Lattitude
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Dark Passage
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Always & Forever
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Sven Slab »

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