Elevation: 2,000 ft
GPS: 33.692, -111.795 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 44,400 total · 249/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Feb 3, 2006 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
Access Issue: Access: Details

Description

Sven Slab, so named because a Sven saw was used to cut the original trail up to the wall, is probably the most popular granite climbing location near Phoenix after Pinnacle Peak. This is the place to hone those sturdy foot muscles on thin granite crystal and edge climbing. The main wall is home to several nice moderate outings, while the outrigger crag down to the right features some additional harder lines.

Getting There

From the Tom’s Thumb Trailhead:
Head East on Marcus Landslide trail.
Take a right at the sign marking the the climbing area for Sven slab.  
Follow the smaller but well travelled trail  right around large boulder  then up and over a small hill looking for the climber’s approach trail on the right.
Ascend the climber’s approach trail.  The trail is well marked.  
10-15 minutes and easy with some scrambling.

Approach

From the easternmost (main) parking lot at Tom's Thumb TH, exit headed east on the Marcus Landslide Trail. This will take you east down the hill. Watch for a signed access trail on the right hand side that will take you to the Sven Slab area. Total approach time, 15 or 20 minutes.

McDowell Mountains Trail Map

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sven Slab

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 14
The Crawl of the Wild
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 89
Quaker Oats
Sport
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 10
Changes in Longitude
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 44
One for the Road
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 16
Mouse Tracks
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 38
Ego Trip
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 40
I Sinkso
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 24
Peaches and Cream
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 15
Black Death
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 21
Cakewalk
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 9
Nit Nat
Trad, Sport, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Criss Cross
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 7
Changes in Lattitude
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 11
Dark Passage
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Always & Forever
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Crawl of the Wild
 14
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Quaker Oats
 89
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Changes in Longitude
 10
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
One for the Road
 44
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Mouse Tracks
 16
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Ego Trip
 38
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Sport, TR
I Sinkso
 40
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Peaches and Cream
 24
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Black Death
 15
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Cakewalk
 21
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Nit Nat
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Sport, TR
Criss Cross
 8
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Changes in Lattitude
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Dark Passage
 11
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Always & Forever
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Sven Slab »

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