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Routes in Sven Slab

Always & Forever T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Arrowhead, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Black Death T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Cakewalk S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Changes in Attitude T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Changes in Lattitude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Changes in Longitude T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chute, The T,S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Crawl of the Wild, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Criss Cross T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dark Passage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Direct Hop S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ego Trip S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hippity Hop S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I Sinkso T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Left Chute T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Mouse Tracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nit Nat T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
One for the Road T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Over the Hill T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Peaches and Cream T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Quaker Oats S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sven's Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Top Line T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dan Dingle, Mike Lawson, Alex McGuffie, Brent Roberts, and Maxie McGuffie 1978
Page Views: 3,536 total, 38/month
Shared By: Tim Heid on Apr 4, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access: Details

Description

CIL is a horizontal seam that crosses 2 large boulders to a huge detached flake. The entire first pitch of the climb is a traverse from left to right; make sure you place a good amount of pro to protect your second.

Pitch 1: Start on top of a large boulder and make a thin exposed move to get into the seam under a small roof. One spicy move and you're at jugs and good feet. Keep moving right for about 40' until you get to a break in the boulder. Look right and up 5' and you'll see the seam continue on. Follow this for about 30' and arrive at the detached flake to find 2 older, but solid bolts to belay from(semi-hanging, but comfortable). The belay can be backed up by medium sized gear.

Pitch 2: Fun, easy chimney climbing up to a large chockstone. Get past this and head up the face on the left to the top.

Location

CIL is located about 200 feet west(climbers right) of the base of Quaker Oats.

When looking at Sven Slab from the parking area you can see a massive detached flake, this is the location of the end of pitch 1. Obvious thin seam runs that runs left of the flake across the middle of the boulders is CIL. Start is the very left side of this seam.

Protection

Set of nuts, doubles cams from 1/2" - 2"
Pablo-Roberts
Prescott, Arizona
Pablo-Roberts   Prescott, Arizona
Just a heads up everyone.. i was about to attempt this route yesterday around 1:20pm, when my partner and I noticed birds eating a mass amount of bees that were flying out of the crack. The Bees seem to be in the horizontal crack all the way to the huge chimney flake on the far right side...

Bee-Warned. Apr 17, 2011
Thank you. I believe Waugh is right. I vaguely remember now Alex's sister Maxie and Brent Roberts being there.

Dan Dec 24, 2010
This route was first done by Dan Dingle, Mike Lawson and Alex McGuffie, 1978. We started in the chimney on the right and traversed left.

Dan Dingle Dec 19, 2010
ClimbPHX.com
Mesa AZ
  5.5
ClimbPHX.com   Mesa AZ
  5.5
Great route... 1st move is dicey - great pro! Yes thats my blood on the rock... LOL May 24, 2010
Tim Heid
AZ
 
Tim Heid   AZ
 
This was a really fun traverse. The first move is a bit hard and protection is so-so. Get past that and it's fun climbing the rest of the way. The belay is pretty cool because you lean your back up against the giant flake and are in a semi-cave for the rest of the climb. I didn't place any gear on the second pitch (easy chimney) and went under the the chockstone to flat ground. We then went out of the cave to the right and 3rd class hiked down.

I would definitely do this climb again, but instead of doing the above stated second pitch, just traverse back and do the first pitch in reverse. Apr 5, 2010