Changes in Longitude
Avg: 3 from 7 votes
Routes in Sven Slab
|Always & Forever T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Arrowhead, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Black Death T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Cakewalk S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Changes in Attitude T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Changes in Lattitude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Changes in Longitude T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Chute, The T,S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Crawl of the Wild, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Criss Cross T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Dark Passage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Direct Hop S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Ego Trip S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Hippity Hop S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|I Sinkso T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Left Chute T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a|
|Mouse Tracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Nit Nat T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|One for the Road T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Over the Hill T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Peaches and Cream T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Quaker Oats S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Sven's Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Top Line T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Dan Dingle, Mike Lawson, Alex McGuffie, Brent Roberts, and Maxie McGuffie 1978|
|Page Views:||3,536 total, 38/month|
|Shared By:||Tim Heid on Apr 4, 2010|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
For the moment, access to this area by climbers should be from a temporary trailhead/parking area that is located near the old Morrell's Wall Parking Lot area. From there, the new Tom's Thumb Trail leads up toward Morrells Wall, Gardeners Wall and on to Tom's Thumb. Please look for, and use designated climber access trails.
DescriptionCIL is a horizontal seam that crosses 2 large boulders to a huge detached flake. The entire first pitch of the climb is a traverse from left to right; make sure you place a good amount of pro to protect your second.
Pitch 1: Start on top of a large boulder and make a thin exposed move to get into the seam under a small roof. One spicy move and you're at jugs and good feet. Keep moving right for about 40' until you get to a break in the boulder. Look right and up 5' and you'll see the seam continue on. Follow this for about 30' and arrive at the detached flake to find 2 older, but solid bolts to belay from(semi-hanging, but comfortable). The belay can be backed up by medium sized gear.
Pitch 2: Fun, easy chimney climbing up to a large chockstone. Get past this and head up the face on the left to the top.
LocationCIL is located about 200 feet west(climbers right) of the base of Quaker Oats.
When looking at Sven Slab from the parking area you can see a massive detached flake, this is the location of the end of pitch 1. Obvious thin seam runs that runs left of the flake across the middle of the boulders is CIL. Start is the very left side of this seam.