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Routes in Sven Slab

Always & Forever T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Arrowhead, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Black Death T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Cakewalk S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Changes in Attitude T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Changes in Lattitude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Changes in Longitude T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chute, The T,S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Crawl of the Wild, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dark Passage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Direct Hop S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ego Trip S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hippity Hop S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I Sinkso T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mouse Tracks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nit Nat T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
One for the Road T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Over the Hill T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Peaches and Cream T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Quaker Oats S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sven's Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Top Line T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,594 total, 35/month
Shared By: David Shiembob on Feb 6, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Access: Details

Description

A really fun route on the looker's left end of Sven Slab. It's an obvious right leaning crack going up the left wall of a gully. Longer than it looks. A very enjoyable pitch, with a crux or two, bomber gear, great easy crack climb. Belay from a tree on a big ledge. A guidebook described a 2nd, pitch, it didn't look worth doing. A quick scramble up and to the right puts you on the ridge and a nice summit. Walk climber's left from the ledge and scramble back to the base to get down.

Location

The last clean rock on the far left hand side of Sven slab.

Protection

Gear through hands. Be aware you need to place a fair amount of gear to protect from swinging into the gully.
Dan Evans
Phoenix, AZ
 
Dan Evans   Phoenix, AZ
 
Climbed this on 11/12/17. Some bees at the base, but not aggressive. The crux is getting situated into the crack, and has one spot that is tricky to protect due to the flaring nature of the crack. Overall, this is a safe lead though. Remember it is a traverse, and one should place gear frequently to protect the second from swinging into the gully. Once you top out, there is a bolted anchor at the top of The Chute (5.4) which can be used to belay up the second. Should you use this anchor, I recommend placing a runner on the last cam to prevent drag during the belay. Rap rings on this anchor look a little frail. Alternative to rapping is to walk off to the climber's left and scramble down the boulder field, which is pretty quick and not at all dangerous. 4 days ago
Fun climb! My partner and I saw the bees as described above but were not bothered by them. I'm guessing the colder weather has slowed them down. Dec 12, 2016
trystan
las vegas
trystan   las vegas
got stopped at the base of the route by bees, they swarmed us and chased us all the way down the mountain. Got stung at least 20 times. Very aggressive bees! Not a good day Sep 25, 2016
William Nelson
Cave Creek, AZ
  5.6
William Nelson   Cave Creek, AZ
  5.6
Bee Attack
Africanized bee hive approximately 20+ feet to the right of the top of the first pitch anchor. While belaying my second up, a few bees kept dive bombing me. Right before my partner made it to the belay, one bee stung me which caused an angry swarm that attacked us both within 30 seconds. We simul rappped down with hundreds of bees swarming and stinging then one our belay devices jammed (not sure how) during our frantic rap and luckily we were able to down climb the last 20 feet. The bees chased us for at least 500 feet or so. We waited and attempted to get our packs, car keys, etc but each time we approach bottom of route (approx 130 feet from nest) the bees attacked again. Only after the the nest was in the shade could we get to our packs. We both got 30-40 stings but other than a big scare and some swelling, a headache and sore muscles from the stings, we survived. I went online and bought two mesh insect head covers that We're going to attach to our harnesses if we ever get attacked again. When the bees are around your mouth, nose, and stinging around your eyes, its almost impossible to rappel safely. Africanized bees suck. Beware and be safe on this route. Wish we would have read and followed the advice of Clayton's previous post and backed off, but I've climbed this 10-20 times without incident. Apr 6, 2015
Clayton S.
Scottsdale, AZ
 
Clayton S.   Scottsdale, AZ
 
Climbed about 3/4 of the route before down climbing because of bees, very active in the shrubs at the top of the gully (climbers right of the route). No real sign of them from the base, might be worth while to scramble up the decent route to check the top before climbing. Mar 9, 2015
Leonard Z
Mesa AZ
 
Leonard Z   Mesa AZ
 
Aug 14 - 2014 Made 2 laps on this route early in the morning. By 8am the Bees were very active although no stings. My first route back on Trad after a few years off...the crack does eat gear and is a ton of fun...great belay ledge at the top. Aug 14, 2014
TConner
Arizona
TConner   Arizona
Beautiful crack climb but the hive was very active today. My partner was stung while climbing second so we got down in a hurry. Jan 26, 2014
Guyface
 
Guyface  
 
BEES are active, and they're getting quite aggressive. They began bumping me as my partner hit the belay, I was stung a few times before we got the heck out of dodge. Once we hit our packs we looked up to see the anchor being swarmed. Appeared as though they were coming from the top of the gully, just above and right of the belay. May 6, 2013
William Nelson
Cave Creek, AZ
  5.6
William Nelson   Cave Creek, AZ
  5.6
One of best easy trad in McDowells. New double anchor at top of crawl of the wild barely makes it to base with 60 m rope rap Mar 9, 2013
ClimbPHX.com
Mesa AZ
  5.6
ClimbPHX.com   Mesa AZ
  5.6
Did ROute again on Fri - Bees are heavily active and my partner was stung - The hive is just below the belay on climbers right... Jul 26, 2010
Matt West
Vail, CO
  5.6
Matt West   Vail, CO
  5.6
Super fun. Great warmup. Saw bees on 4/2 - but in the gully to the climbers right. Didn't bother us throughout the climb. Apr 3, 2010
ClimbPHX.com
Mesa AZ
  5.6
ClimbPHX.com   Mesa AZ
  5.6
Completed 11/23 - No Bees! Great Climb - would be good for newbie to learn to place pro... Dec 3, 2009
Tim Heid
AZ
  5.6
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.6
Awesome pitch. There are bomber spots for pro all the way up. We didn't see any bees on 11/13/09. Nov 15, 2009
noburu Irvine
Flagstaff
 
noburu Irvine   Flagstaff
 
The second pitch is actually pretty fun. Saw bees, not many, no nest (11/09) Nov 8, 2009
ZEric
Surprise, AZ
ZEric   Surprise, AZ
We were going to do this one after The Chute, but we observed considerable Bee activity next to One For the Road and decided to skip it. There may be a nest in the gully to the left of the climb about half way up so use caution. Dec 1, 2008