Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Shinsuke Kimura, Rie Kimura Jan 2006
Page Views: 1,366 total · 13/month
Shared By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Dec 25, 2010
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route

3 Opinions

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A fantastic sport route, solid at the grade. Continuous open handed slopes, big moves, interesting sequences, a few crimps, and even a long dyno -- all on great stone -- make this a classic. The trickiest business is over after the first half, but the rest is no gimme, and you've got to buck-up for the big throw. The final moves may give you pause as well... I saw one RP attempt end on the *final* move before the anchors. There are a couple key rests to help pull-it together. Great, inspiring ... a must do, and one of the best at the grade in Yangshuo.


This route is smack in the middle of the main wall, right when you walk up to the crag, right above the spray-painted 'warning'. To the left is Gin & Tonic (mega-classic 13b/c), to the right is Gang Of Four (12d) and the classic White Devil (also 12d). Climb up the overhang, take a vaguely wandering line for the first 3 bolts, then its straight as an arrow through the crux, dyno, and to the anchors.


Bolts to a 2 bolt, fixed anchor. Long, use a 60m rope.


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