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Routes in White Mountain

Abinormal S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Axeman, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Big Sun, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Debauchery S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cave Man S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
China Climb S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
China White S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Comedians, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Devil Sticks S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Face Route S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gang of Four S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gin and Tonic S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Girl With A Machete S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Happy Chanukah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jie Jie Hua Xiang (Tangerine Blossom Fragrance) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liang Ba Sua Jie S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Merry Christmas S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Missing Link, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Phoenix, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prowl, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stone Dog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tsing Tao Beer S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
West Streak S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
White Devil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wow Wow Mei Ao S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yangshuo Hotel S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
unnamed S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Shinsuke Kimura, Rie Kimura Jan 2006
Page Views: 987 total, 12/month
Shared By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Dec 25, 2010
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

A fantastic sport route, solid at the grade. Continuous open handed slopes, big moves, interesting sequences, a few crimps, and even a long dyno -- all on great stone -- make this a classic. The trickiest business is over after the first half, but the rest is no gimme, and you've got to buck-up for the big throw. The final moves may give you pause as well... I saw one RP attempt end on the *final* move before the anchors. There are a couple key rests to help pull-it together. Great, inspiring ... a must do, and one of the best at the grade in Yangshuo.

Location

This route is smack in the middle of the main wall, right when you walk up to the crag, right above the spray-painted 'warning'. To the left is Gin & Tonic (mega-classic 13b/c), to the right is Gang Of Four (12d) and the classic White Devil (also 12d). Climb up the overhang, take a vaguely wandering line for the first 3 bolts, then its straight as an arrow through the crux, dyno, and to the anchors.

Protection

Bolts to a 2 bolt, fixed anchor. Long, use a 60m rope.

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