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Routes in White Mountain

Abinormal S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Axeman, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Big Sun, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Debauchery S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cave Man S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
China Climb S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
China White S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Comedians, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Devil Sticks S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Face Route S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gang of Four S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gin and Tonic S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Girl With A Machete S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Happy Chanukah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jie Jie Hua Xiang (Tangerine Blossom Fragrance) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liang Ba Sua Jie S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Merry Christmas S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Missing Link, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Phoenix, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prowl, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stone Dog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tsing Tao Beer S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
West Streak S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
White Devil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wow Wow Mei Ao S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yangshuo Hotel S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
unnamed S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Description

The hot spot for hot shots at YangShuo, White Mountain Cliff is a massive wall leaning past vertical for most its 200 meter length. White Mountain is probably home to the biggest collection of climbs in the upper grades (.12 - .14). The wall is south facing and so gets sun all day long; while it may be a blessing in the cooler months it mostly is a nuisance in the commonly sticky weather of S.E. China. The steepness of the cliff helps it stay fairly dry in the rain. The cliff is getting massively popular and is a good place to pick up a partner if you're up to snuff.

Getting There

Head south-east out of town, towards Puyi. About 2 miles after crossing the Yu Long River you should see a small community off to the right. The first dirt road goes to The Egg, the second to White Mountain and the surrounding crags.

A public bus heads this way but I’m not sure which one (Puyi?). On the public bus you’ll have to get let off at the dirt road and you’ll have a 1-2 km hike ahead of you. A charter bus can take you right up to the crags. I recommend getting the name of a charter company from a guide shop as they will be familiar with the area. You could also feasibly bike there, but it’s probably about 10 km.

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Classic Climbing Routes at White Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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