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Routes in White Mountain

Abinormal S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Axeman, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Big Sun, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Debauchery S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cave Man S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
China Climb S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
China White S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Comedians, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Devil Sticks S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Face Route S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gang of Four S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gin and Tonic S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Girl With A Machete S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Happy Chanukah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jie Jie Hua Xiang (Tangerine Blossom Fragrance) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liang Ba Sua Jie S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Merry Christmas S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Missing Link, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Phoenix, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prowl, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stone Dog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tsing Tao Beer S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
West Streak S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
White Devil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wow Wow Mei Ao S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yangshuo Hotel S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
unnamed S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Neil Gresham (Oct. 2006)
Page Views: 367 total, 4/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Feb 17, 2011
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

Approach this route with an open mind and no preconcieved notions of what constitutes a quality rock climb and you will probably enjoy it. The route is best described as acrobatic tufa funk. Begin by soloing up through a labyrinth of caves. This may sound strange, but you'll understand what I mean when you see it.

Start by cranking some acrobatic moves on nice pockets through severely overhanging territory. Lead with your feet ahead of your hands until you get yourself into a nice unconventional rest in a large pod. Rest here for as long as you want.

Once rested make your way up to the next ledge. At this point you realize that you need to traverse 15 feet right on the ledge without the aid of positive hand holds. A healthy dose of knee barring will get you through that section. Rest up again for the most physical section of the route.

The next section involves some aggressive tufa pinching. I view it as the crux / funnest part of the route. Pinch those tufas and scream like Sharma as you battle 20 vertical feet to a massive tufa rest and the first set of anchors. Take this last major rest before deciphering reachy 11+ climbing to the upper set of anchors.



Location

This route is on the left side of White Mountain. It starts from a pod 20 feet off the ground. It can be identified by its extreme steepness and the massive tufa at the first set of anchors.

Protection

Lots of bolts. Long slings on the first few bolts reduce rope drag.

Photos

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