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Routes in White Mountain

Abinormal S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Axeman, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Big Sun, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Debauchery S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cave Man S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
China Climb S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
China White S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Comedians, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Devil Sticks S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Face Route S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gang of Four S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gin and Tonic S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Girl With A Machete S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Happy Chanukah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jie Jie Hua Xiang (Tangerine Blossom Fragrance) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liang Ba Sua Jie S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Merry Christmas S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Missing Link, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Phoenix, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prowl, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stone Dog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tsing Tao Beer S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
West Streak S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
White Devil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wow Wow Mei Ao S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yangshuo Hotel S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
unnamed S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mark Garthwaite (Nov. 2005)
Page Views: 223 total, 3/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Feb 21, 2011
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

Gang of four is every bit as good as its more traveled neighbors (G&T, Tsing Tao, White Devil). The best thing about this sector, is that although all the routes look the same, each one climbs a bit differently. This route requires the least finger strength, with the difficulty arising from moving between the holds rather than holding on to the holds.

Be prepared for some hard climbing right from the get go. A hard lock off on some slopey holds leads you to some jug hauling. The next few bolts feature some committing boulder problems split by good rests. Traverse right in to White Devil for the last bolt of climbing. Although it shares a bolt it still has its own independent set of anchors.

Location

This route is on the highly pocketed wall in the center of the cliff. The main trail leads you to this route. Look for the route with noticeably less chalk than the surrounding routes.

Protection

12 bolts + anchors

Photos

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