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Routes in White Mountain

Abinormal S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Axeman, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Big Sun, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Debauchery S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cave Man S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
China Climb S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
China White S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Comedians, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Devil Sticks S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Face Route S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gang of Four S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gin and Tonic S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Girl With A Machete S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Happy Chanukah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jie Jie Hua Xiang (Tangerine Blossom Fragrance) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liang Ba Sua Jie S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Merry Christmas S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Missing Link, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Phoenix, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prowl, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stone Dog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tsing Tao Beer S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
West Streak S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
White Devil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wow Wow Mei Ao S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yangshuo Hotel S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
unnamed S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Neil Gresham, 11/2005
Page Views: 1,115 total, 13/month
Shared By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Nov 13, 2010
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

The best route of its grade at the crag? Yangshuo? Certainly a contender, White Devil boasts great, super-fun climbing from bottom to top. Ramps up to speed early with a tough, delicate crux near the bottom, climbs to a tricky few moves at mid-way, then a pumpy ride to a super satisfying (and a bit sharp) thank-god jug. The finish is a fun final 10m of 11b-ish jug hauling -- hard enough to fall off of and spoil a redpoint or onsight if you haven't saved quite enough.

Location

On the main face of White Mountain, just about right up the center. Its just left of Yangshuo Hotel and right of Gang of Four. Climbs up the starting overhang through a few tricky moves - a spot is a good idea here.

Protection

Bolts to a 2 bolt fixed anchor.

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