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Routes in White Mountain

Abinormal S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Axeman, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Big Sun, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Debauchery S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cave Man S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
China Climb S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
China White S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Comedians, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Devil Sticks S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Face Route S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gang of Four S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gin and Tonic S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Girl With A Machete S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Happy Chanukah S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jie Jie Hua Xiang (Tangerine Blossom Fragrance) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liang Ba Sua Jie S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Merry Christmas S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Missing Link, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Phoenix, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prowl, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stone Dog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tsing Tao Beer S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
West Streak S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
White Devil S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wow Wow Mei Ao S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yangshuo Hotel S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
unnamed S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Liu Xi Nan, Chen Xie Wei 2/2005
Page Views: 276 total, 3/month
Shared By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Nov 13, 2010
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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Description

A moderate but fun start leads to a reachy overlap, then through very delicate, crimpy climbing -- it pretty easy to feel out of balance through the crux. There's a pretty tough clip amid the thin edges and pockets, then on to fun but still full-value climbing up to the shared anchor (with Stone Dog, 10c).

Location

Move right from the main area you first get to at the crag, up through the bolders, and about another 10m. Above you will be 2 routes, the left is Devil Sticks, the right is Stone Dog, 10c. This route climbs the ledge, easy section up to the hueco'd overlap, then into the thin side-pulls, etc.

Protection

Bolts to a shared 2 bolt fixed anchor.

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