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Routes in Chilly Willy Wall

Candy Corn S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Center Stage T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Donkey Show S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Giant Boulder Left S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Giant Boulder Middle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Giant Boulder Right S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Half Baked Alaska S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
No Sketching S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ragnarok T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Smedley's Pancakes S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tasty Freeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turkey Sandwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wet Willies S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 520 total, 6/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Sep 24, 2010
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

The middle and hardest bolted line on the detached boulder in front of Chilly Willy Wall follows a broad rib. Slabby, low-angle smearing moves between occasional positive holds as you try to stay in balance on the arete on what is really a bolted highball boulder problem. It has a high first bolt, which may make it a poor choice for a sketchy 5.9 leader.

Rappel from the shared anchor at the top of the boulder (which would be improved if it had chains).

Location

The middle of the 3 bolted lines on the detached boulder in front of Chilly Willy Wall.

Protection

2 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

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Andrew B. Ellis
  5.10b
Andrew B. Ellis  
  5.10b
You are both correct. The crux is probably 10b and very balancy. at least you should be able to get the second bolt clipped before entering it.

Probably the coolest of the 3 routes, but still not an attention grabber. Sep 4, 2017
Mike M
Sandia Park, NM
Mike M   Sandia Park, NM
Agree with Arthur, no way this is 5.9 going up the bolt line. 5.9 moves up through the 2nd bolt that lead to a good jug...unfortunately that where it all turns. Good hands above the bulge disappear at the same time you run out of feet. I gave up after a few short whips here. Sep 19, 2016
Arthur Sullivan
Albuquerque,NM
Arthur Sullivan   Albuquerque,NM
Maybe I was missing something but this felt very difficult for 5.9 if you stick to the bolt line. Its short but pulling over the arete felt like a 5.10 move. Nov 4, 2010