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Routes in Chilly Willy Wall

Candy Corn S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Donkey Show S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Giant Boulder Left S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Giant Boulder Middle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Giant Boulder Right S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Half Baked Alaska S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
No Sketching S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ragnarok T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Smedley's Pancakes S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tasty Freeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turkey Sandwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wet Willies S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 967 total, 8/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on May 12, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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13 Opinions

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Description

Sort of a V0- highball boulder problem with bolts (and an anchor from which to abseil). The first bolt can be reached from the ground, which helps protect against a ground fall during the low cruxy moves before reaching the stability of the first undercling. Relatively pedestrian underclings and sidepulls then carry you to the top.

This route is cursorily described by Jackson (2006) and Beverly (2006).

Location

This climb is on the left (north) side of the giant boulder that leans against the front of the Chilly Willy Wall.

Protection

Three bolts. The first bolt is appreciated, but the top two bolts are located right next to detached flakes that would allow gear placements -- go figure.
A two-bolt top anchor is shared with the other climbs on this boulder. Long slings (as compared to quickdraws) are useful at the anchor.

Photos

Andrew B. Ellis
  5.10- PG13
Andrew B. Ellis  
  5.10- PG13
I agree - this problem in particular felt much harder than 5.8 off the ground. I give it a 5.10- rating just for the first 3 moves. The rest of the route felt 5.8- and is quite run-out (botching the second clip or even falling just short of it results in a ground fall. but if you made it past the first few moves the rest should be cake.)

All in all a forgettable route, and not for the aspiring 5.8 leader. Sep 4, 2017
Mike M
Sandia Park, NM
5.9
Mike M   Sandia Park, NM
5.9
Very tricky first moves, especially for a shorter person, I think the whole boulder is a bit stout for the grade. Sep 19, 2016