Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,022 total · 8/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on May 12, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Sort of a V0- highball boulder problem with bolts (and an anchor from which to abseil). The first bolt can be reached from the ground, which helps protect against a ground fall during the low cruxy moves before reaching the stability of the first undercling. Relatively pedestrian underclings and sidepulls then carry you to the top.

This route is cursorily described by Jackson (2006) and Beverly (2006).

Location

This climb is on the left (north) side of the giant boulder that leans against the front of the Chilly Willy Wall.

Protection

Three bolts. The first bolt is appreciated, but the top two bolts are located right next to detached flakes that would allow gear placements -- go figure.
A two-bolt top anchor is shared with the other climbs on this boulder. Long slings (as compared to quickdraws) are useful at the anchor.

Photos

Mike M
Sandia Park, NM
5.9
Mike M   Sandia Park, NM
5.9
Very tricky first moves, especially for a shorter person, I think the whole boulder is a bit stout for the grade. Sep 19, 2016
Andrew B. Ellis
Ruidoso, NM
  5.10- PG13
Andrew B. Ellis   Ruidoso, NM
  5.10- PG13
I agree - this problem in particular felt much harder than 5.8 off the ground. I give it a 5.10- rating just for the first 3 moves. The rest of the route felt 5.8- and is quite run-out (botching the second clip or even falling just short of it results in a ground fall. but if you made it past the first few moves the rest should be cake.)

All in all a forgettable route, and not for the aspiring 5.8 leader. Sep 4, 2017