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Routes in Chilly Willy Wall

Candy Corn S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Center Stage T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Donkey Show S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Giant Boulder Left S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Giant Boulder Middle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Giant Boulder Right S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Half Baked Alaska S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
No Sketching S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ragnarok T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Smedley's Pancakes S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tasty Freeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turkey Sandwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wet Willies S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: John O'Donnell, Donna Williams
Page Views: 706 total, 6/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on May 12, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Described in Jackson's guide book as "seldom climbed", and there's probably a good reason for that. From the top of the boulder pile, delicately climb the face and/or arete to the roof. A fist- to arm-bar sized crack leads around the right side of the roof. Follow more secure, lower-angled fist and hand cracks to the top anchors, just past an easy bulge.
Previously described by Jett and Samet (1991:84 -- they call it 5.8), Beverly (2006:58 -- called it 5.8-), and Jackson (2006:211 -- called it 5.8). None of these guides had previously presented a route topo, though.

Location

This starts on the right side of the boulder pile, about 30 feet right of the Tasty Freeze bolts and about 30 feet left of the bolted Candy Corn route.

Protection

Trad rack to #4 Camalot (#4 is pretty essential), also including a thin-finger sized cam.
Two-bolt anchor at the top (actually one closed cold shut and one bolt with a chain). One can either rappel or walk off (a class 3 scramble-off, actually). Once you know the anchor, this can be set as a top rope by walking up the backside.
Although it's not indicated as such in any of the books, I added an R rating, due to what I felt was the sketchy-ness of the face just off the top of the boulder pile. One has to make a pretty unprotected move to gain a stance on the face where you can reach a thin-finger cam placement in a pod under a semi-detached flake, which appears pretty solid (but I swear, the flake made a creaking noise as I climbed past the cam!). That's basically all the meaningful pro you get until you reach the roof crack, so there's a possibility of landing on the boulder pile, or the ground below, if you peel off the face (so maybe even ~X rated?).

Photos

Arthur Sullivan
Albuquerque,NM
Arthur Sullivan   Albuquerque,NM
I realize its probably not climbers but the base of this climb has developed a serious toilet paper problem over the past year. Really unfortunate because I enjoy climbing at this wall when the front walls are crowded on summer days. Jun 21, 2010
J tot
Tempe, AZ
J tot   Tempe, AZ
The climb is fun but the first viable place for pro is in the massive flake... past what I thought was the crux. Jun 19, 2010