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Routes in Chilly Willy Wall

Candy Corn S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Center Stage T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Donkey Show S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Giant Boulder Left S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Giant Boulder Middle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Giant Boulder Right S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Half Baked Alaska S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
No Sketching S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ragnarok T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Smedley's Pancakes S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tasty Freeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turkey Sandwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wet Willies S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FRA: Jason Halladay, Allison Fritz
Page Views: 168 total · 17/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Dec 2, 2017
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Center Stage isn't on the Chilly Willy Wall proper but, instead, on the wall right by the river between the river and the Chilly Willy Wall.

Make fun, bouldery moves off the ground to a good stance, and the first gear, about eight feet off the ground. Climb the wide crack and face holds on the left to a wider section that gets a bit steeper. A #5 camalot could prove useful here.
The wide crack narrows to great hands just when you want it to pull over the bulge to easier but slightly awkward crack climbing to a great stance just below the finishing slab.
Clip a bolt and climb licheny slab past one more bolt and the anchors.

Location

On the wall right by the river just before the first bridge crossing. To access it, walk the main trail and cross the river on the first bridge. Then walk back upstream on the river bank to the route.

Protection

.4 camalot, #1 through #5 camalot with doubles in the #3 and #4 to really sew it up. A couple of quickdraws for the two bolts on the slab. Lowering biners on the anchor.

Photos

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10-
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10-
"Bruno-cx wrote:Hate to burst your FA bubble but that route was done in the early 90s. For many years there was faded webbing hanging off of the top of the pillar where the crack peters out. So maybe you go the FA of the last 10 feet or so.


No FA bubble to be burst here, I'm not very concerned about being the FA. I just like climbing new stuff. I assumed it may have been climbed previously since it's quite obvious from the trail. However, in my 15+ years of climbing around Las Conchas, I hadn't seen any indication and hadn't heard from anyone about an ascent. Posting here is a good way to try to get some info.

Certainly the last 15 of classic licheny slab hadn't been climbed (I don't blame people for not climbing that!) To whom should I attribute the FA? Dec 4, 2017

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