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Routes in Chilly Willy Wall

Candy Corn S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Donkey Show S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Giant Boulder Left S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Giant Boulder Middle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Giant Boulder Right S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Half Baked Alaska S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
No Sketching S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ragnarok T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Smedley's Pancakes S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tasty Freeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turkey Sandwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wet Willies S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Chuck Calef, August 2017
Page Views: 92 total, 34/month
Shared By: Chuck Calef on Sep 3, 2017
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

According to Wikipedia, "In Norse mythology, Ragnarök is a series of future events, including a great battle, foretold to ultimately result in the death of a number of major figures." That is an apt description of this old-wave trad climb that features zero bolts and 5.11 overhanging bridging. Thank Odin it can be top-roped to learn the subtle sequences and arcane nut placements.

The climb, which starts about 3 feet left of "Wet Willies" corner, follows a thin crack up to a middle section of easy lower angle climbing. Although much cleaning has been applied to this route there is still loose and crumbly rock in its lower half. The long crux bridging section begins in the firmer tan rock and continues up to an overhanging bulge where a rounded hand ledge leads to a rough hand crack through the bulge.

Location

This route is located behind and just left of the huge boulder lying against the Chilly Willy Wall. It begins three feet left of the "Wet Willies" slab at a thin crack.

Protection

Protection is mostly small to medium stoppers. Medium cams are useful in a few places while hand size cams can be placed in the crack through the bulge. No bolts, no fixed gear. Bombproof anchors can be placed at the top of the route for top-roping purposes but you will need long slings or a short bit of rope to extend the top roping point over the edge of the cliff.

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