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Routes in Chilly Willy Wall

Candy Corn S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Donkey Show S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Giant Boulder Left S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Giant Boulder Middle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Giant Boulder Right S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Half Baked Alaska S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
No Sketching S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ragnarok T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Smedley's Pancakes S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tasty Freeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turkey Sandwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wet Willies S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Burns, Schillaci
Page Views: 205 total, 2/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on May 12, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Start up by stemming between the wall and the boulder pile, or by climbing the loose-ish flakes on the face, clipping a bolt along the way. Or just scramble up the boulder pile (you might miss the first bolt if you do that, though). Clip the second bolt and stretch for a bomber jug. Pull through to a solid stance to place some hand-sized pro, then angle up to the right, liebacking and protecting the semi-detached flake. Find the third bolt in the face to the left, and step left across the face to another semi-detached flake. Top out by following this, or apparently one can continue straight up through scoops (a little run-out, maybe safer to try that on toprope). Both options reach a big ledge with a bolted anchor at eye level on the face behind (allowing for a decent toprope setup).
Previously described by Jett and Samet (1991:84), Beverly (2006:58), and Jackson (2006:211). Jett and Samet gave this route an "R-" annotation, and the other two guides call it "R", although I'm not sure why; maybe if you choose the right finish through the scoops?

Location

Begin in a little alley just left of the boulder pile, just to the right of a black streak on the wall.

Protection

Three bolts (two fairly low on the route). Trad rack with mostly larger gear (save #3 and #4 Camalots for the upper left exit crack). (although I have heard of someone leading this on only the bolts!! scary-bold, or foolish?)
Two-bolt anchor at the top (actually one closed cold shut and a bolt with a chain). Either rappel or walk off (actually a class 3 scramble-off). Once you know where the anchors are you could set this as a toprope if you walk up the backside.

Photos

First ascent was done on-sight, ground up...... May 19, 2017
J J
Edgewood, NM
J J   Edgewood, NM
Quality route. Good holds. Fun!

Use a .75 C4 once you are standing on the huge Jug, then get the first lie-back and throw in a #3, hit the next bolt and make a few face moves then throw in a #4 at the top. Quick draws work fine for drag.

Wouldn't hurt to have 30' of webbing to extend the anchor at the top if you're gonna top rope it, to prevent massive drag.

Not sure what the R rating is. Possibly if done without pro. Aug 9, 2009
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.9
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.9
Jemez Rock lists an independent line as Unnamed (5.10+) just left of Tasty Freeze. I'm not sure where it is.

I think only 1 logical "mixed bolts + gear" climb exists in section of Chilly Willy Wall, and it goes at about 5.9 and is Tasty Freeze. Maybe if you don't stem off the block at the beginning, and stay left rather than clip the 2nd bolt, you could make it a contrived 5.10+ by staying left of the black streak (not protected well, but could be toproped).]

After some discussion with a few folks, we figure that Tasty Freeze probably follows the line marked as Unknown 5.10+ in 'Jemez Rock', rather than the line where it is marked to the right, in the same book. May 13, 2008