Avg: 2.5 from 13 votes
Routes in Chilly Willy Wall
|Candy Corn S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Donkey Show S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Giant Boulder Left S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Giant Boulder Middle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Giant Boulder Right S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Half Baked Alaska S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|No Sketching S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Ragnarok T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13|
|Smedley's Pancakes S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Tasty Freeze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Turkey Sandwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Wet Willies S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 65 ft|
|Page Views:||205 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Wenker on May 12, 2008|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionStart up by stemming between the wall and the boulder pile, or by climbing the loose-ish flakes on the face, clipping a bolt along the way. Or just scramble up the boulder pile (you might miss the first bolt if you do that, though). Clip the second bolt and stretch for a bomber jug. Pull through to a solid stance to place some hand-sized pro, then angle up to the right, liebacking and protecting the semi-detached flake. Find the third bolt in the face to the left, and step left across the face to another semi-detached flake. Top out by following this, or apparently one can continue straight up through scoops (a little run-out, maybe safer to try that on toprope). Both options reach a big ledge with a bolted anchor at eye level on the face behind (allowing for a decent toprope setup).
Previously described by Jett and Samet (1991:84), Beverly (2006:58), and Jackson (2006:211). Jett and Samet gave this route an "R-" annotation, and the other two guides call it "R", although I'm not sure why; maybe if you choose the right finish through the scoops?
LocationBegin in a little alley just left of the boulder pile, just to the right of a black streak on the wall.
ProtectionThree bolts (two fairly low on the route). Trad rack with mostly larger gear (save #3 and #4 Camalots for the upper left exit crack). (although I have heard of someone leading this on only the bolts!! scary-bold, or foolish?)
Two-bolt anchor at the top (actually one closed cold shut and a bolt with a chain). Either rappel or walk off (actually a class 3 scramble-off). Once you know where the anchors are you could set this as a toprope if you walk up the backside.