Type: Sport, 42 ft
FA: Jason Halladay, Allison Fritz
Page Views: 416 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Aug 13, 2016
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Before I cleaned this and climbed it, I thought it would be an average 5.9 route. Turned out much trickier, difficult and fun than I expected.

Climb crunchy and licheny rock in the the dihedral right of No Sketching to shared anchors with that route. Climb up the dihedral using offset cracks and holds on the dihedral's right side. A strenuous pull between bolts one and two rewards you with easier climbing in the middle section. Stem your way up and climb the faint arête on the right. Move left to the finishing bulge and a perfectly-placed pocket to pull the bulge to the anchor.

I've done loads of brushing and cleaning on it because I think it's a good addition to the area but for sure it needs more brushing if one is so inclined. Expect parts of the coursely-grained rock to crumble with more ascents.

Location

The dihedral a few paces right of No Sketching.

Protection

Six bolts to the anchor of No Sketching. Recommend stick-clipping first bolt.

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