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Routes in Futurescape Wall (Roof Area)

A Gentlehoe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Back in the Day S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Streak TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Buffy S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
El Jefe S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
El Rancho S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Huffy S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
La Cantina S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Noah's Ark Arete (aka Peer Pressure) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Respecting the Law (aka Handcrack Corner) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweatpants in Public S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Michael Logan
Page Views: 1,074 total, 12/month
Shared By: Christopher Barlow on Aug 22, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Huffy is a good, hard rock climb - gymnastic, pumpy, and a lot of fun. The rock, on the other hand, is not that good. One must ignore some sand, cobwebs, and creaky blocks to appreciate Huffy's aesthetic movement on a steep, limestone wall.

Begin with an opening boulder problem on pinches to technical moves in steepening rock. Pull out a short roof and do the second (and slightly more difficult) boulder problem on crimps and slopers. Keep the pump in check as you move into the high, dynamic crux on bad sidepulls. Clip the chains and lower - 30 feet out from the wall and conveniently right onto the trail.

As to the rock quality, all the bolts and holds (that I used) are on solid rock. Some holds required extensive brushing. There were two reinforced holds - one ripped off with little effort on my part. The other one seems solid and is still in place, but it doesn't seem useful. So again, the rock is a bit chossy, but the route is a worthwhile challenge.

Location

There are two routes on the main, steep part of the Roof area. Huffy is the left one. From the main trail, scramble up a vague, loose trail through bushes to the wall and walk about twenty feet left to a belay area. Start by stepping on some detached blocks wedged against the wall.

Protection

9 bolts to chain anchors, a stick clip for 2nd bolt (skip 1st bolt to mitigate rope drag), a long draw for bolt #8 or skip it and risk a safe but very long fall off the top of the crux, and a knee pad if that's your thing.

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Nolan Robertson
  5.13a
Nolan Robertson  
  5.13a
Backstep/dropknee helped with the last move of the crux. Jul 6, 2016
Kyle Edmondson
  5.13a/b
Kyle Edmondson  
  5.13a/b
The glued hold did break. If anything, the route became a touch easier, although there is a chance the whole undercling will go, which would make it more difficult. Right now two of the three pieces that were loose in the hold pulled. Jul 30, 2015
Kyle Edmondson
  5.13a/b
Kyle Edmondson  
  5.13a/b
Great route. I agree with the 13a/b grade. FA by Michael Logan. Jul 1, 2015
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
  5.13a/b
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
  5.13a/b
There is one glued on hold at the upper crux that will break, but that hold is not crucial to the route. Sep 7, 2012
Erik Durgin
  5.13a/b
Erik Durgin  
  5.13a/b
Maybe I'm too generous with my stars, but I think this route is so much fun! One of the longest consistently steep routes in DGO. Three powerful boulder problems separated by steep juggy climbing.

I was pleasantly surprised to find that the choss was quite minimal. Only the upper boulder problem had an abundance of loose rock on it, which I did my best to get rid of and it's now pretty solid. Really, I think it just needs a good scrubbin' at the beginning of every summer due to a winter of seeping.

I highly recommend it to anyone who thinks the Golf Wall isn't quite long enough! Jun 24, 2012