Avg: 2.9 from 7 votes
Routes in Futurescape Wall (Roof Area)
|A Gentlehoe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Back in the Day S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Black Streak TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|Buffy S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|El Jefe S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|El Rancho S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Huffy S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|La Cantina S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Noah's Ark Arete (aka Peer Pressure) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Respecting the Law (aka Handcrack Corner) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Sweatpants in Public S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c|
|Type:||Sport, 60 ft|
|Page Views:||1,074 total, 12/month|
|Shared By:||Christopher Barlow on Aug 22, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionHuffy is a good, hard rock climb - gymnastic, pumpy, and a lot of fun. The rock, on the other hand, is not that good. One must ignore some sand, cobwebs, and creaky blocks to appreciate Huffy's aesthetic movement on a steep, limestone wall.
Begin with an opening boulder problem on pinches to technical moves in steepening rock. Pull out a short roof and do the second (and slightly more difficult) boulder problem on crimps and slopers. Keep the pump in check as you move into the high, dynamic crux on bad sidepulls. Clip the chains and lower - 30 feet out from the wall and conveniently right onto the trail.
As to the rock quality, all the bolts and holds (that I used) are on solid rock. Some holds required extensive brushing. There were two reinforced holds - one ripped off with little effort on my part. The other one seems solid and is still in place, but it doesn't seem useful. So again, the rock is a bit chossy, but the route is a worthwhile challenge.
LocationThere are two routes on the main, steep part of the Roof area. Huffy is the left one. From the main trail, scramble up a vague, loose trail through bushes to the wall and walk about twenty feet left to a belay area. Start by stepping on some detached blocks wedged against the wall.
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