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Routes in Futurescape Wall (Roof Area)

A Gentlehoe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Back in the Day S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Streak TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Buffy S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
El Jefe S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
El Rancho S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Huffy S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
La Cantina S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Noah's Ark Arete (aka Peer Pressure) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Respecting the Law (aka Handcrack Corner) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweatpants in Public S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Erik Durgin
Page Views: 860 total, 21/month
Shared By: Erik Durgin on Jul 8, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Sweatpants is a big, steep monster of a route climbing out the center of the Roof Wall on the best section of stone (with one 8 foot section of junk).

The first portion of the route is characterized by hard boulder problems separated by easier climbing with a the hardest guarding a big rest at the 50 foot mark. From here, the route gets much steeper, and it's a thuggy, 20 foot power endurance race to the chains.

Sweatpants will also test one's powers of beta memory and technical trickery.

Location

Sweatpants starts on the first three blots of Huffy. After bolt #3, Sweatpants moves right for 8ish feet then continues straight out the center of the wall.

Protection

10 bolts plus chains. Extended draws will make a big difference with rope drag and clipping. Knee pads are very helpful.

Photos

Nolan Robertson
  5.13c
Nolan Robertson  
  5.13c
So far, it seems that people send this route when it's raining. Jul 2, 2016