Avg: 2.8 from 8 votes
Routes in Futurescape Wall (Roof Area)
|A Gentlehoe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Back in the Day S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Black Streak TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|Buffy S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|El Jefe S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|El Rancho S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Huffy S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|La Cantina S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Noah's Ark Arete (aka Peer Pressure) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Respecting the Law (aka Handcrack Corner) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Sweatpants in Public S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c|
|Type:||Sport, 55 ft|
|FA:||Ben Griffen, Drew Hoch, Erik Durgin|
|Page Views:||808 total, 13/month|
|Shared By:||Erik Durgin on Oct 2, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionAre you looking for a big steep .12a? Well now Cascade's got one! Thuggy and juggy is the name of the game on this route.
Start on a beautiful blue face of "harder-than-it-looks climbing" past the first bolt to a good stance under the second. from here the route gets steep and powerful as you climb through big undercling and layback features. Get a good rest on a big, left-facing fin (knee-bars anyone?) just past the 4th bolt. From there, work your way far left under a big roof to gain a good hold at the lip, make a few more strenuous moves, and you're home free on the juggy, exposed headwall. Clip the anchors and lower out 20 feet from the wall!
The top half is still a tad dirty, but with some more traffic, I think it will clean up to be a 3 star line.
LocationStart in a big, blue, right-facing corner 20 feet left of Huffy.
The first half of the route climbs a very obvious, wide crack feature (don't worry, no hand jamming or any other awful crack technique is required!). From the fourth bolt, the route zags left under the big roof.