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Routes in Futurescape Wall (Roof Area)

A Gentlehoe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Back in the Day S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Streak TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Buffy S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
El Jefe S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
El Rancho S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Huffy S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
La Cantina S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Noah's Ark Arete (aka Peer Pressure) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Respecting the Law (aka Handcrack Corner) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweatpants in Public S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Erik Durgin, originally equipped by Jay Petzbolt
Page Views: 1,150 total, 21/month
Shared By: Erik Durgin on May 11, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Peanuts, sticky floors, cheep beers, and girls looking to make bad decisions. You'd be hard pressed to find a climber in DGO who hasn't had a night of fun and fornication at this classic dive bar.

With no defined crux and zero fluff climbing, this route comes down to pure endurance. Expect big, thuggy moves on mostly good holds with little opportunity for rest. Begin by squeezing your way out the prominent arete feature. Fight your way into the underclings in the roof and transition onto the beautiful headwall of bad slopers and incut edges. With a little traffic, I think this will clean up into a four star route.

This is the old abandoned project listed in the guidebook as a 5.13 project. Based on the condition the route was in when I started working on it, I do believe I made the first free ascent. Just to make the route safe and climbable, I had to add one bolt, move two exiting bolts, and move the anchors down about 15 feet. If anyone has more information on the history of this route, I would love to know.

Location

This route begins up the very prominent arete feature smack dab in the middle of the Roof Wall, 20 feet to the right of Huffy.

Protection

7 bolts with fixed anchors. Knee pads are very helpful.
Ben Kiessel  
 
I'll have to try the knee bar next time I'm on it, although I have a hard time finding motivation to try hard if I've already hit something. I'll probably never get on it again. It's not about the joy of climbing, it's about the tick list and the points. NEXT! Dec 17, 2014
Tortilla
Fakeville, USA
Tortilla   Fakeville, USA
When you have your hands established on the slopers of the headwall, there is a small, right foot chip that you use to smear your right knee under a small belly of rock. One of the pictures shows me using the foothold, just after removing the kneebar. Duct tape is compulsory, because you have to press and pull on it quite a bit. Good luck, let me know how it goes! Nov 26, 2014
Ben Kiessel  
 
I have no idea where I could haven gotten a kneebar on this thing. Nov 10, 2014
Erik Durgin  
 
Thanks so much for the update! I love knowing the history behind DGO climbing areas. Jun 17, 2013
s.price
PS,CO
s.price   PS,CO
Jay Petzbolt was the original equipper of this route, then he left town. He was convinced it would be 5.14, but then he also bolted and rated (and drilled a pocket) on Bert & Ernie's Tourney at Golf Wall and rated it 5.13c/d. Nice FA. Thanks again to the new wave of developers in the Canyon. Jun 16, 2013