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Routes in Futurescape Wall (Roof Area)

A Gentlehoe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Back in the Day S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Streak TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Buffy S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
El Jefe S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
El Rancho S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Huffy S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
La Cantina S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Noah's Ark Arete (aka Peer Pressure) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Respecting the Law (aka Handcrack Corner) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweatpants in Public S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Erik Durgin
Page Views: 514 total, 8/month
Shared By: Erik Durgin on Oct 24, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Better bring the big guns for the face melting, forearm bursting pump that this route packs!

Buffy is an alternate start to Huffy with more consistent and steeper climbing but slightly less difficult moves. The two routes meet at the midway crux of Huffy.

Start the same as A Gentlehoe for the first four bolts. At the good rest under the roof, bust right (first crux) with powerful lockoffs through good pockets to gain an ok rest at bolt #6. From here, pull into the midway crux of Huffy (second crux) to get the final rest at bolt #8 before the powerful and long ender crux of Huffy.

As for the grade, again I really have no clue. It seems to be just a bit more demanding than Huffy.

Location

Do the same start as A Gentlehoe, 20 feet left of Huffy up the prominent, blue, left-facing corner.

Protection

10 bolts plus chain anchors. Extended draws on bolts 2 through 7 help reduce rope drag and ease clipping.

A stick clip is highly recommended for the first bolt as the climbing is harder than it looks!

A left knee pad is useful but not necessary.

Photos

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Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
  5.13a/b
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
  5.13a/b
Eric bolted the first four bolts on lead and spent sh!t tons of days cleaning this badass route. It is really fun and clean for Cascade's standards. Good job, Eric, thanks for the awesome route. Oct 25, 2012