Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: B. Gillett & C. Hill, 2002
Page Views: 866 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 12, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This has great climbing, if this is your sort of thing. The crux is edging on a limited number of small holds, so it is all about balance and control... and edging shoes.

Climb up the moderate corner to a ledge, protecting with whatever gear you feel like tossing in. This is not the crux of the climb.
Continue up to clip 2 bolts easily, then start into thinner territory. Step up into harder climbing and clip the 3rd bolt, then the difficulty starts in earnest. Clip the 4th bolt and go left (cleaner) or right (easier) through the crux and up to the top of the arete. No way is secure, but both are safe. Height and face climbing skills both matter here. Wear edging shoes as well!

Location

This route is near the left side of the Coliseum and is easily spotted as a low angle, right-facing corner that leads to a strangely exfoliated and clean white patch on an arete with 4 bolts.

Protection

A single set of cams to 3" and 4 bolts to a bolted anchor. The gear-protected climbing is moderate in grade.

Photos