Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Bob Jasperson, 2001
Page Views: 9,432 total · 64/month
Shared By: Matt Richardson on Mar 23, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Toward the middle of the wall lie two long aretes that make their way to the top of The Coliseum. Handcrack-a-rete is the obvious hand crack that splits the arete on the right hand side. Start by scrambling to the base of the crack then proceed through the excellent hand crack to a set of bolt anchors approximately 100' up on a great ledge. The crux lies near the beginning of this pitch; here, the crack itself is angled inward (making the jams somewhat awkward) and the feet are thin. As the crack proceeds upward, the angle eases up and the feet become more plentiful.

The second pitch can be attacked via two paths. The most obvious path is to follow the arete upward past a bolt about 10-15' above the belay ledge. Although Gillett states that the gear is sparse, at 5.6 the gear felt comfortable. Another option for the second pitch (also 5.6) is to head further right to a large flake; although I have not done this variation, it appears that the flake is more readily protected than the direct approach. Either way, the pitch ends with at a set of bolt anchors on another nice ledge.

There is a last pitch consisting of a short 5.6 chimney which will gain you the summit, but we chose to rap off from this point. To descend from the second belay station, simply rap to the first and then to the ground. If summiting, walk off to the west or rap off of an anchor located on the ridge further east.

The first two pitches can be linked with a 60 m rope.

Location

This route is located on the second of two nice aretes which gain the summit. This beautiful handcrack can not be missed as it splits the second arete. You will have to do a little scrambling to reach the base of the route.

Protection

A traditional rack (you know, nuts, cams, etc) with extras in the hand-sized range for the first pitch.

Photos