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Routes in The Coliseum

Gladiator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Handcrack-a-rete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hollow Man T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ionic Column T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lion's Face, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost in Time T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Planetary Pull T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unleash The Lions T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vrainavore T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wrinkle in Time T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: B. Jasperson, B&K Grohusky, and J. Neumann, 2001
Page Views: 3,065 total, 29/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Mar 23, 2009 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The second pitch of Lost in Time is one of the best of its grade for the caynon. The quality is on par with "Upside the Cranium" and "Panic in the Gray Room".

P1: The first pitch starts on the blunt arete to the right of the obvious large tree about 80 feet up the wall. Place a small cam at the start and clip two bolts along the arete. Low angle climbing and one bolt leads to the tree belay. Let your partner lead this one. (5.9, 80 feet)

P2: The money pitch.... Follow 8 bolts up the clean slab, which is only marred by a horizontal crack after the third bolt. (#4 Friend) The large cam is probably optional, since the climbing is easy/secure in this section. Small edges lead past a few more cruxes to the bolt anchors above Handcrack-A-rete. (5.10b, 80 feet)

Rap Handcrack-A-rete with a 60m rope.

Location

Lost in Time climbs the slab to the right of Handcrack-A-rete.

Protection

Light rack to #2 for P1, and a #4 Friend for P2....

Photos

Jim Clarke
Cottonwood Heights, UT
  5.10b
Jim Clarke   Cottonwood Heights, UT
  5.10b
Slightly harder than Ionic Column, perhaps because you get tired and it's longer after slabbing out on 1st pitch.. Aug 10, 2014
Andrew S.
Bouldurr
Andrew S.   Bouldurr
I found the best way to get to Lost in Time is to lead Handcrack-a-rete's both pitches, then lower to the tree ledge, set an anchor, and slab to the top. A double rap on Handcrack's anchor will get you down while avoiding the haggard first pitch. Lost in Time is a great Vrain slab. Apr 11, 2014
Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
I was impressed by how well this route was bolted - I'm not quite 5'4" and could clip all the draws and felt the pro was well-placed for the crux moves. I placed a #4 Camalot partway up (new style, but old one would be even better). Felt harder than Ionic Column to me. Jul 13, 2013
Dankasaurus
Lyons, CO
 
Dankasaurus   Lyons, CO
 
The quality is indeed on par with Panic and Upside, but the climbing is not quite as good. Panic is much more exciting and insecure. Upside the Cranium is twice as long with better position. Aug 27, 2012
slim

  5.10b
slim    
  5.10b
Excellent 2nd pitch. Well-bolted for the most part, although I couldn't clip the last bolt easily from the best stance (and I am pretty tall). If you are short, it might be exciting. Sep 20, 2010
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
  5.10+
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
  5.10+
The rock on this first pitch is definitely more friable than the second making for a not so nice P1. The second pitch is definitely the beauty. I made the mistake of letting my partner take this one and you would have thought the bolts were 20' apart (rather than 6') the way he whined. Mar 24, 2009