Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Bernard Gillett and Chris Hill, 2002
Page Views: 388 total · 3/month
Shared By: Milton Price on Sep 30, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

11 Opinions

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Gladiator is a fun climb with a great roof crack on the last pitch. There is plenty of lichen in this area but the climbing tends to be pretty clean where it matters.

P1: climb splitter 5.8 wide-hands to a short loose section to a belay at a tree. This is a short pitch and is easily linked with p2.

P2: a fun, .10c, thin crack leads to a two bolt anchor.

P3: this is the goods. Climb a corner to the start of the roof. Using hand and fist jams work your way through the roof .11b. After the roof step right to a finger crack and head to the top.


Rack up to a #4 Camalot and Doubles in hand sizes to #3 Camalot for the roof.


Scott Bennett
Scott Bennett   Michigan
Fun roof, sullied by some bird crap. Oct 19, 2009

Surprised that Gillett's book (or MP) doesn't describe the sketchiness of the second pitch. The rock quality is pretty poor (hanging sheet/flake sort of thing). The crack at the crux is smaller than silver TCU, and I was blindly trying to fish RPs into a parallel-sided, offset crack while in a tweaky layback. The 2 smallest Ballnutz might take the sting out of this a bit, but I would still consider it a somewhat serious pitch. The gear at your feet is probably ok (at least as good as the rock is), but there is also a ledge and a tree right below you. Sep 20, 2010

Heinous amount of shit on the roof crack. Bring a Tyvek suit and some serious cleansing materials. Oct 6, 2010
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
Not sure why you would stop @ tree, but continue 1st P to 2 bolt anchor, spicy gear placements on upper face.
Roof has bat guano not bird poop, and, yeah, it's there in spades, but I was able to successfully bypass it w/o too much trouble. A toe hook really helped as well as a #4.5 Camalot. Once over the lip, have a red or green Camalot and a couple of small/med Aliens or equiv for the short 5.8 finish crack.
This roof has solidm flippin' jams, yeah! Oct 10, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
I thought P2 was solid enough - there are holds/gear to the right and left of the main crack if you look. P3 looked worse than it did a few years ago, and we decided not to go for it today. Will be back in long pants/sleeves/tape-gloves/dust mask/jumpsuit in the fall. Last thing I need is to push that yuck into open wounds (still have some from Unaweep last weekend). Looks pretty fantastic otherwise. Jul 14, 2013
Ed Krejcik
Broomfield, CO
Ed Krejcik   Broomfield, CO
I did not do P3 Either, but in reference to P2, yeah, I got 2 semi-solid, small nuts in the right crack and a worthless black Alien in the main crack. Got another small nut up higher in the crack above the Alien. Figured one of the pieces had to hold. Then I pulled the crux and it was not that bad. Not sure I'd call it 10c. Maybe the sketch factor makes it 10c. May 30, 2016
I did P3 on this summer of August, 2016. However, I climbed left after the roof---caution, rock quality is horrid despite easy 5.7-8. Then we lowered in, cleaned out the finger crack, and reclimbed the last part of the pitch. It was some extra work but worth it. Short 3rd pitch, but it made the rest of the climb well rounded. This route doesn't get done often for lots of reasons. Watch the people below, b/c they may/may not see you up there. Jan 4, 2018