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Routes in Good Medicine Area

Adore T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bear Dance, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Elk S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chocolate Moose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dream Catcher S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fire Water S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forgotten Warrior S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ghost Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Good Medicine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Am Haunted S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Indian Summer S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Legend, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Medicine Man S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moon Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Peace Treaty S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ruthie Boulder V? ?
Sacred Hoop S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spirit Guide S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sun Dog S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomahawk in the Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tribal Warfare S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vision Quest S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
White Man's Burden T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Wind Walker S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wounded Knee S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 40 ft
FA: Jeff Baldwin, 2001
Page Views: 100 total, 1/month
Shared By: Boissal on Aug 2, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

There are 2 ways to tackle this striking arete:

The 5.11a intended line (I assume) starts on the left side of the beast. The name of the game here is long moves to small lichen-covered crimps with bad feet (you know the story with aretes, no matter which side you're on the footholds are always on the other). A couple of hard moves, a clip and a holy-shit deadpoint will get you to a good horizontal. Watch for choss, bring a brush, warm up your fingers, the start is for real.

The 5.easy (my estimate) way starts on the right side of the arete. The uber-blank face can be bypassed by stemming against a pillar until the same good horizontal can be reached.

After that it's cruiser climbing on increasingly large holds past 2 more bolts to the top. Once there take a second to ponder how such a good looking line can be so unrewarding. That is until you see the pics of yourself on it...

Location

Maybe 150' left of the Good Medicine Prow, across a dark choss-gully and at about the same level sits this short overhanging arete.

Climb it then bring someone up to clean and walk off climber's left (east?) down a few shelves. A bit of downclimbing gets you back to earth.

More than adequate fixed protection

3 draws + something to set up a belay on the single bolt on top.
Bringing gear on Adore is about as useful as bringing it to the gym (read: not). Sure it makes you look cool in the pics and you can place anything from a .2 to a .75, maybe even a 1 somewhere, but really once you've clipped the 2nd bolt and the gear opportunities appear the holds are good and the climbing mellow. Go on, run it out, live a little.

If you want to lower/TR however, 1 or 2 green aliens or equivalent + long runners backup the lone bolt nicely.

Photos

EAS Fett  
 
Climbed this last week and thought it must be contrived. I got suckered to the right in the chimney and thought it was about 9+ (still fun). I agree when you get to the gear it backs off and big jugs appear. The shortness and having to walk off doesn't make you want to come back and do it again. Aug 3, 2010