Avg: 1.3 from 7 votes
Routes in Good Medicine Area
|Adore T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Bear Dance, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Black Elk S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Chocolate Moose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Dream Catcher S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Fire Water S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Forgotten Warrior S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Ghost Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Good Medicine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|I Am Haunted S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Indian Summer S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Legend, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Medicine Man S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Moon Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Peace Treaty S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Ruthie Boulder V? ?|
|Sacred Hoop S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Spirit Guide S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Sun Dog S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Tomahawk in the Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Tribal Warfare S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Vision Quest S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|White Man's Burden T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Wind Walker S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Wounded Knee S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 40 ft|
|FA:||Jeff Baldwin, 2001|
|Page Views:||100 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Boissal on Aug 2, 2010|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionThere are 2 ways to tackle this striking arete:
The 5.11a intended line (I assume) starts on the left side of the beast. The name of the game here is long moves to small lichen-covered crimps with bad feet (you know the story with aretes, no matter which side you're on the footholds are always on the other). A couple of hard moves, a clip and a holy-shit deadpoint will get you to a good horizontal. Watch for choss, bring a brush, warm up your fingers, the start is for real.
The 5.easy (my estimate) way starts on the right side of the arete. The uber-blank face can be bypassed by stemming against a pillar until the same good horizontal can be reached.
After that it's cruiser climbing on increasingly large holds past 2 more bolts to the top. Once there take a second to ponder how such a good looking line can be so unrewarding. That is until you see the pics of yourself on it...
LocationMaybe 150' left of the Good Medicine Prow, across a dark choss-gully and at about the same level sits this short overhanging arete.
Climb it then bring someone up to clean and walk off climber's left (east?) down a few shelves. A bit of downclimbing gets you back to earth.
More than adequate fixed protection3 draws + something to set up a belay on the single bolt on top.
Bringing gear on Adore is about as useful as bringing it to the gym (read: not). Sure it makes you look cool in the pics and you can place anything from a .2 to a .75, maybe even a 1 somewhere, but really once you've clipped the 2nd bolt and the gear opportunities appear the holds are good and the climbing mellow. Go on, run it out, live a little.
If you want to lower/TR however, 1 or 2 green aliens or equivalent + long runners backup the lone bolt nicely.