Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 441 total · 11/month
Shared By: kalockwood on Sep 14, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Same start as Good Medicine. Heads up and left on the slightly overhanging face.

Location

Left of Good Medicine. Same start, left bolt line.

Protection

9 bolts + chains

Photos

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kalockwood
SLC, UT
  5.12a
kalockwood   SLC, UT
  5.12a
The guidebook rates this climb 12a, but it is much harder than Good Medicine. Has anyone else tried this? Is there a consensus on the grade?

There was a short section that was very blank and seemed much harder than 12-, did a hold break? Sep 14, 2015
Vlad S
  5.12a
Vlad S  
  5.12a
Rating of 12a seems fair to me. However, currently the route is sprouting lots of lichen and zero chalk, which makes it a bit more of a challenge. Good Medicine has big pulls between jugs and is easier in comparison especially if you are in good shape... Jul 6, 2018
Stephen Lander
Salt Lake City, UT
Stephen Lander   Salt Lake City, UT
Vlad, if you think 12a is fair, please tell me how you got through that blank section. I agree with kalockwood that one section feels much harder than 12a. Above that section was lichen covered but actually quite fun movement. Jul 9, 2018
Vlad S
  5.12a
Vlad S  
  5.12a
Stephen, I can't remember that well now. I do remember getting to that spot and thinking "woah, it's really blank here". Then, I think I matched some microcrimp and did some awful big reach to get past. It was a bit desperate. Could be a little harder than 12a - thinking back to it, I'm not so sure any more. Oct 29, 2018